The Adventure Company: Tigers to Maharajahs!

Our next blog comes from David and Lorna Cooper who recently travelled to India and completed our Tigers To MaharajahsTour. They also included an extension to Varanasi and have kindly submitted a travel diary summarising their trip:



”Day 1: Delhi
Arrived at Delhi airport to be met by Sher our guide and the rest of the group. We all hit it off immediately. We then set off for our hotel. It was our first introduction to Indian Driving - Scary!



Still, we arrived safely at the hotel despite running red lights.

As we had arrived late Sher announced that our rest period had been curtailed and that we would be departing for our sightseeing trip around Delhi shortly. Lorna and I had a swift wash and brush up and went downstairs to meet the whole group.



Jami Masjid Mosque was on the agenda. It was our first taste of removing our shoes and going barefoot into the temples. It was hard at first just to abandon our newly purchased trainers but during the trip we got used to it. The Mosque was worth the visit and it was also an introduction to the sellers who would always approach you every time you got off the bus!

It was poignant when we visited Mahatma Gandhi’s grave and everyone appreciated the quietness of the area. It was an early night that night for everyone.

Day 2: Agra
After an early morning call and breakfast Sher led the party to the Railway station, where chaos reigns! However after entrusting our luggage to porter (50 rupees per bag) off we went to find our train. Sher soon had us standing in the right place for our carriage. The train compartments were as expected: plastic seating and painted blue.

Everyone was excited. One of the main reasons for coming to India was getting closer to The Taj Mahal!After a quick stop at the Hotel (and a quick cup of coffee in Starbucks for me) off to the red fort.



It was big and busy with many tourists of all countries. From where Shah Jahan was imprisoned we got our first glimpse of the Taj Mahal through the haze. It must have been so sad for him to see it every day and not being able to visit it.



After our visit to the Fort we set off to see the actual building. The men in the party got through security very easily but for some reason the guard took a dislike to the women in the group and kept sending them to the rear of the queue. Finally we all got back together and approached the Taj. There were the usually photographer touts there and the obligatory group photo was taken.



It was quite beautiful and all we could do at first was to stand and stare. The girls decided they wanted to go inside to see the tomb but given the rugby scrum that was at the entrance I was a bit dubious. Still nothing ventured – so forward we went, me holding on to all my valuables as best I could. However in we went and it was well worth the effort. Afterwards the group split up and wandered around the gardens just looking at the building in awe from different angles. When we again met up the group had decided that the visit to the Taj had made the trip to India worth while even if nothing else was seen. It was with great reluctance that the group made its way back to the bus to take us back to the hotel.

Day 3: Fatehpur Sikri & Ranthambore
Up early again this morning and off to Fatehpur Sikri. This apparently was a city built by one of the Maharajahs to ensure he had a son and it seems to have worked. However the city was only occupied for a short period as a lack of water forced a return to the original capital.



Alongside the city is a major mosque which unfortunately is inhabited by many locals trying to sell you trinkets. I suppose they have got to make a living somehow.

Afterwards it was back to the bus and onto the bird sanctuary at Bharatpur and the bird sanctuary of Keoladeo Ghana. This place I think gave us peace and quiet for the first time since joining the tour and all of us I think would have liked more time to enjoy the park.

But a train awaited us. By this time the men had agreed to get the ladies on to the train first to get the seats, and then we would get the bags on. Unfortunately I was last on and while getting the last of the cases on, the train started off. I’m not saying I panicked but let’s just say I threw the last on and grabbed hold of the train as it picked up speed. It was with great relief that I got to my seat!

Day 4: Ranthambore
Aftter arriving late we unpacked and went straight to dinner (via a much needed beer.) Sher suggested a early night as the first game drive starts at 5:30 am. Everyone agreed and fell into bed.

The morning started with a light breakfast and we all got onto the Cantor, which is like a truck with seating for twenty and no roof. Each truck was given a game trail number and the truck had to stick to that trail no matter what happened. Off we went and as we travelled through the park the ranger told us of the various animals we saw, mainly samba deer at first. Not long before the truck had to turn back, it stopped and looking down to the trail we saw this:



Everyone started to get excited - this was the first sign of the tiger we had seen! Then the guide pointed and lying on a hillside was the tiger.







That ended our game drive for the morning we returned to the hotel for breakfast which was eagerly anticipated. I don’t think anything but the tiger was discussed for the next 4 hours until the evening game drive. Unfortunately the next game drive turned out to be an anticlimax for we never saw the tiger again. The ranger explained that it was just luck that we saw the tiger and they could never guarantee such a sighting that we had that morning.

Day 5: Pushkar
It was an early morning departure for Pushkar from our hotel and armed with our packed lunches we boarded our bus. We stopped for lunch along the way and it was good to get out the bus and stretch our legs.



It was getting late when we finally arrived in Pushkar. The tent we were allocated was quite comfortable with electric lights and flushing toilet however I wasn’t too sure of the shower - it looked a bit Heath Robinson to me!



It was getting late and after a meal and a quiet drink we all turned in. All food at Pushkar fair is vegetarian- however, we could get a beer in the mess tent.

Day 6: Pushkar
It was an early start the next morning. I put my bucket out and hot water was delivered to the tent. After breakfast transport was arranged for us, a camel cart, and we all set off to the fair. After Sher had explained how the fair was arranged and shown us some sites –this included the girls getting blessed, at a price. We were then allowed to set off on our own.



The town was so busy but it was fascinating with the colours and strange smells. The girls soon got into the buying mode and began to bargain with the best of them. After a while we decided to make our way to the fair main showground where there was to be a moustache competition. It proved to be a great draw to both locals and tourists alike. As we wandered around the sights and sounds it was like being carried back to another time, with a few modern conveniences such as motor bikes thrown in.



The locals were always to keen to show off their prized possessions but I resisted the temptation to start bargaining for Lorna, although the camel did look nice and had make up on!









We all arrived back at our tents tired but exhilarated. Sher had arranged for us to go back to the fair to see the sunset so off we went by camel cart again and climbed a small ridge to sit and watch the sun setting on the fair.



Day 7: Pachar
At breakfast next morning the group decided that as we had a long way to go to the maharajahs palace in Pachar it would be better to leave before lunch time as was originally planned and stop to have some lunch somewhere on route. It was quite lucky we did this as the driver of the bus got lost as so many of the roads had been washed out in the recent monsoon! During our drive we came upon one traffic jam with a difference:



Still, it did provide some light relief. On arrival at the palace, a beer was welcome before even being shown to our rooms.



Day 8: Pachar To Jaipur
Next morning I was up early and watched the sun rising over the village and listened to it awakening..



After breakfast, the group set off around the village to see the local Hindu temple and the local schools. We had all contributed to getting various items for the schools such as pencils, notebooks and other items and helped to distribute them to the kids.



It was enjoyable to do and as the schools receive very little state aid it was very worthwhile.
Later that day it was back onto the bus to go to Jaipur.We arrived at the Bisseau Palace in Jaipur early in the evening and were able to unpack and have a shower before going out into town for a meal and show.

Day 9: Jaipur
Sher arranged for a call the next morning and we all set off to visit the astronomical centre and royal palace. The astronomical was fascinating and our guide was very knowledgeable about the site and of subjects such as birth signs and palm reading. Some of the readings proved to be quite near the mark - I won’t say which ones girls!





The royal palace was very interesting with the armoury and art exhibits. As we had the afternoon free Lorna and I got off the bus at the famous Palace of the Winds and had a wander around the local markets.



My wife thought our purchase of a silk bedspread, pillow cases and cushions for approx £30 was a very good buy!

That night Sher arranged for dinner to be served on the rooftop of the hotel with a sitar and drums providing the music. It proved to very atmospheric with various fireworks going off all around the city.

Day 10: Jaipur & Amber Fort to Delhi
In the morning the group headed off to the Amber fort. Before arriving Sher warned us that going up to the fort on elephant would be impossible as the queues for the elephant rides would be too long for us to wait for. In a way, it was nice to see that the animals only worked for so long in the morning and then were rested.



So we went up to the fort by jeep. What a place! The amount of manpower to build it must have been immense. Some of it was beautiful especially the council chamber and the ladies palace.







There was a lot to see and the visit to the fort lasted approximately 3 hours. Then we collected our baggage and made our way to catch the train to Delhi.

At this point I must make mention of one of our party, Kate who left the group at this time to start an adventure on her own. She is going to work for charity in Jaipur until January 2009. I hope all goes well with you Kate!

Day 11: Delhi
A Day to ourselves, I think the first of the holiday. Most of the party went off shopping. I think many stalls must have tripled their budgets that day.

Lorna and I met up with Ailsa, Sheila and Sue in the Imperial Hotel for lunch and although I say it myself, the champagne was well received. A much more civilised lunch than we had become used to.

Our last dinner was taken in a restaurant, Clay Oven which was close to the hotel. It was a bit sad saying goodbye to the rest of the group. We had become quite close and I would have no hesitation on going on holiday with any one of them, especially my concubines!

Day 12: Delhi to Varanasi
Lorna and I said farewell to the group as they left for the airport. It was odd being on our own now but we made the most of our day in Delhi.

After some confusion and hassle with Explore India when securing our bunks for the railway journey, we managed to find a bunk that was suitable, but not our first choice. We had requested an AC1 Sleeper, and received an AC2.

The Railway station was also manic and very crowded, we were happy when we finally got on the train.

When onboard we found we had been booked on two top bunks, luckily an elderly gent gave up his lower bunk to allow Lorna to sleep there, as she would have been unable to climb onto the top bunk.

During the night I had a most unfortunate accident when I tried to climb down from the top bunk. I landed on the floor bruising my ego quite severely. I would advise anyone doing this trip to Varanasi either to insist on an AC 1 sleeper or a flight there!

Day13: Varanasi
We arrived in Varanasi almost 3 hours late which, according to our guide was good timing for Indian trains!
Then we were taken to our Hotel where we had a good breakfast after being shown to our room.

Our guide for our stay was very good and knew all about the sites we were taken too. He also took us after dinner to the banks of the Ganges where they pray for world peace every night. With the music, chanting and incense it made for a very atmospheric and unforgettable evening.



Day 14: Varanasi to Delhi
On our last morning it was an early start and we were taken to the banks of the Ganges once again, but this time we embarked on a boat with our guide and an elderly rower who took us up and down the various sites on the bank. It was strange to hear loud laughter there, a form of yoga, we were told!




After breakfast Lorna and I were then taken to the Airport for our flight back to Delhi.

Day 15: Delhi
After breakfast it was off to Delhi airport for our flight home. In conclusion, would I go again? Most definitely, YES! I enjoyed 98% of the holiday, the guide Sher Singh was excellent and the rest of the group were some of the nicest people I could ever hope to travel with and we have made some very good friends!"

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Thanks for Reading,
The Adventure Company
”Adventure is our middle name”