The Adventure Company: Couple on a Serengeti safari!

This month our blog comes from Kirsty Allen who enjoyed writing her previous blog so much, she's decided to write another! Kirsty and her boyfriend went on The Adventure Company's Serengeti Explorer tour. She shares the diary she kept whilst in the wild and lets us know how they got on...

"Friday 22nd September
Going on Safari – can’t believe it! Its something we’ve always wanted to do, and really hope to see the big five! Elephant, Lion, Leopard, Rhino and Buffalo. We’ve decided to go with the Adventure Company and go camping – hope everything goes to plan! Catch our train to Euston from Crewe at 2.35pm, and arrive in London at 4.45pm. Catch a train to terminal 3 (Heathrow); check in our bags and away we go! Everywhere we walk we keep spotting ‘The Adventure Company’ Labels on peoples rucksacks! Definitely a good sign! The plane leaves London at 10.30pm, heading for Addis Ababa.

Saturday 23rd September
Land in Addis Ababa at 8.00am. Ethiopia has a nice airport, with loads of different shops and unusual things for sale. Go to gate 5A, to catch our flight to Tanzania. The plane was parked on the runway, so we had to catch a bus over to the plane. On the plane I am sitting next to a guy also on holiday with the ‘Adventure Company’ he is going to climb Mt Kilimanjaro! Aarghh! The plane leaves Addis Ababa at 10.30am; next stop Kilimanjaro Airport, Tanzania. I can see the vast open spaces from the plane window, and can’t wait to get off the plane, and go outside. After we land we collect our bags and head for the exit. Go out to arrivals and we can see an ‘Adventure Company’ sign, our Driver is there waiting for us, his name is John. He is such a lovely guy so laid back and seems pretty excited that we are here! Meet 3 other people on our trip, a couple and a lady travelling alone. We all seem similar ages and start chatting straight away. John drove us for about an hour to ‘Tropical Trails’ office, a company the ‘Adventure Company’ are using for the trip.



The journey was amazing, everywhere is open land, and people are bustling everywhere, all the towns are really small, and most of the buildings are really run down, but everyone is buzzing! We see some lovely ladies carrying huge baskets on their heads. At ‘Tropical Trails’ we have a lovely cool drink in there, and a brief about the trip. We also paid our local payment. Once leaving there, John drove us the 5minute drive to the Karama Lodge in Arusha. This place is awesome! We are greeted with watermelon drinks and shown to the bar area – the view over to Kilimanjaro is amazing!



The bar is massive, and the lodge is full of wooden huts all staggered up the hillside, everything looks right in its place and we love it here. The views all over are amazing.





Two young girls carried our bags to our hut, whilst we looked around. John arranged to meet us the following morning. We have arranged to meet with the 3 others tonight at 7.30pm in the bar, where we are also supposed to meet 5 others who are also on this trip. Have a gorgeous shower in the room, it is a stone shower, the room feels like its outside – hope we don’t get any uninvited guests! We have a balcony where we can sit outside and relax.



Go down to the bar and meet 2 other guys on our trip, they have just climbed Kilimanjaro and are now on the Safari with us. We all sat and had a drink together, then went down to the restaurant for some food. The food was really nice. Meet up with the final people on our trip, a mother and son, and another guy who is travelling alone, they have also just climbed Kilimanjaro – we feel really lazy now!



Have a good laugh with everyone; they seem a really good group. Allen then suggests another drink in the bar, so that went down well. Request a wake up call for 6.30am, go to bed at 10.30pm. I am so excited about tomorrow, I am not going to sleep a wink!

Sunday 24th September
Wake up at 6.30am – we did have a visitor in the night, a really long lizard – he was weaving himself through the rushes in the roof – I tucked the mosquito net all around my bed just to make sure he didn’t come in for a sleep over! Go down for a lovely breakfast and meet up with everyone. John arrive at 8.00am, we leave at 8.30 in the jeep and go into Arusha.



The group has been split between two jeeps. Firstly we went back to ‘Tropical Trails’ to pick up our Cook, his name was Innocent. Once in Arusha, John took us to change some of our money into shillings, and we then stopped to pick up some water (and beer!). We then travelled for 80Km to pick up some charcoal for Innocent to cook. At this stop, we jumped out to stretch our legs; there was a small café and a few shops swarming with men, women and children all trying to sell us things. I bought two necklaces. Next stop was Twiga Camp site.


We all had to set up our dome tents, very funny! This site had a lovely bar, and kitchen area for Innocent to cook (Inno as he wanted to be called). We sat and had a cool drink, whilst Inno cooked a Spaghetti Bolognaise, with watermelon for after. The food was lovely, and the watermelon was like nothing I had tasted before –it was so juicy! We all sat round a long camp table – everyone is in high spirits! The other driver/guide is called Marrovet. John and Marrovet are always laughing, it’s infectious! Leave the campsite at 2.30pm and go to Lake Manyara visitor centre, and then into the National Park.





It is scorching! We have the roof down on the jeep, and we can all stand up! Feel like real explorers! The open spaces inside the park are absolutely amazing. The amount of animals we saw already was amazing too!







Monkeys, elephants, giraffes, zebra, pelican, storks, impala, and dik diks! It is fantastic! John’s knowledge on these animals is incredible, and he has the eyes of a hawk!





We left the park at 6.30pm and went back to camp. I grab the chance for a shower (cold!), as there will be no chance once we enter the Serengeti. Inno has made us another lovely meal, pumpkin soup, followed by fish, potatoes and vegetables; so far the cook is really very good! Sit and chat around another cool drink, and look at all our photos, a praying mantis comes to join us, he is huge! Go to bed at 11.30pm. Serengeti tomorrow!!!

Monday 25th September
Wake up at 6.00am, it feels hot already. Go for breakfast, sausage, egg and toast, yum – also try some Mango. Get ready to pack up camp, when the elastic snapped on the trailer and hit Inno in the eye! It swelled up really quickly! We are all really worried – my first aid kit comes out to the rescue.



On our way out, John drove Inno and us to the doctors, luckily he will be ok, but has a patch on his eye – bless him. He is still adamant he is coming with us! We then followed the road to meet Marrovet and the others in the next village. We stop to take some photos of Lake Manyara National park from above. By now its about 10am, and really starting to warm up.



Next we drove to the Nnorongogo Crater Conservation Area, it was an amazing site, 16x18Km, created by the collapse of a huge volcano. There is an Alkaline Lake at the bottom which looks like it is steaming, but it is just dust! It is a fantastic sight! Marrovet and John took some group photos of us here!



We then drove to the Oldupai Gorge for lunch at about 1.30pm. This is a vast canyon created by volcanic eruptions and the movement of plates over millions of years. The build up of ash has created many levels of preservation of fossils and animals! Remains have been found dating back almost 2 million years. The most interesting are the remains of a 1.75million year old skeleton, nicknamed the Nutcracker man because of his huge skull and jaws – a set of footprints have also been rescued - is this the missing link?!



Walk around the very interesting museum and eat our lunch lovely; bread and chicken, an apple, little cakes, biscuits and crisps. We left here about 3.00pm; we are finally on our way to the Serengeti. The roads now are really bad and very dusty, and we can see nothing for miles. Just before we enter the Serengeti we stopped just at the entrance and walked a small nature trail up to a viewpoint where we could take photos of the Serengeti National Park. The view was phenomenal.



On entering the park a huge Ostrich in the distance comes out of nowhere and looks like it is running along side us! Then suddenly John stopped the jeep and points out a Cheetah! I can’t believe it, I have goose bumps, and I have no idea how John spotted it! We are really in the wild now, it is absolutely spine tingling.



On our way to camp we saw some hippos, they were huge and a purply colour in the sun, I love them, we also saw some Buffalo, they have a huge presence about them and were incredible to see.



We arrived at Tumbili camp at 6.00pm, its in the middle of nowhere, and isn’t really a proper camp as there are no barriers or fences, between us and the Serengeti – I absolutely love it! The camp is fairly busy so we are not alone, and the small kitchen area is full of cooks – Inno goes quickly to start making our tea.



The Sunset here is the best I have seen, and as it came down to meet the Serengeti plains, I would not of wished to be anywhere else - I can’t describe how wonderful it looked, but it was very special. It started to go dark at 7.00pm, so we all sit round our camp table by lamp light, eating popcorn. For tea Inno made leek and potatoe soup, beef stew with rice, followed by pineapple – all of which was gorgeous! He really is a brilliant cook. John and Marrovet give us a safety brief on tonight – if we have to pee we have to open out tents step 2 steps outside and then go there – absolutely no wandering off. Whilst we are eating our tea we can hear hyenas howling – incredible. Me and Al go to bed at 9.30pm and go through all our photos – we have taken loads. The sounds of the bush are constantly buzzing!

Tuesday 26th September
Wake up at 6.45am, have a lovely breakfast of eggs on toast, then leave Tumbili site at 8.20am and go off on a game Safari! See lots of Impalas and Thompson Gazelles, Warthogs and Tope’s. The baby warthogs are the cutest you’ve ever seen, they run round frantically with their tails in the air!



We saw some beautiful Lions and Lionesses, John called them the honeymooners as the Lion was after the Lioness, then they were lying down together side by side – I think the Lion was spooning her! What wonderful animals. Next we saw a group of Lionesses with their cubs, amazing.



We also saw a Lioness hunting some Impala, it was very exciting to watch and the atmosphere actually felt tense! The highlight of the day was seeing 13 elephants crossing the path in front of us, what a wonderful sight, a proper little family.





See lots of baboons, jackals – very ugly creatures, and a waterbuck.

We went back to camp at 1.30pm to have lunch – chicken, vegetables, potatoes and lots of fresh fruit – lovely. Do some more first aid on Inno’s eye too. Sit and chat in the shade until 3.30pm, as it is too hot to go out in the jeep. At 3.30pm we drove for an hour further into the Serengeti and went to see a Hippo pool, not before passing lots of elephants, giraffes and even another cheetah on the way! At the Hippo pool there were tens of Hippo’s! They are all amazing.





You have to hold your nose whilst you are there – I’m surprised the whole pool isn’t solid the amount of poo they are all doing! It was absolutely brilliant to see so many in one spot. They kept standing up and then sinking back down, and if you were lucky you could see one huge hippo that had a little tiny hippo sitting on her back, and every time she stood up, he was standing there covered in mud! The Hippos shared their home with a couple of huge crocs – amazing.





Head back to camp at 6.00pm, see some hyenas and zebra on the way back, and also another gorgeous sunset.



The scenery and landscape here is second to none, and no picture will ever live up to it.



Get back at 7.00pm, it is pitch black! Inno has made cucumber soup, vegetable stew and spaghetti for tea, with lots of pineapple for afters – lovely. How Inno does it in the dark with one eye, I don’t know! Sit and chat by torchlights to the others in the group, discussing all our future holiday plans – what a brilliant day!

Wednesday 27th September
Wake up at 6.00am, really hot and suffering from sunburn. Have a drink and a biscuit then leave camp at 7.15am to go on an early game drive. It is very quiet at this time, and everyone is out searching for a Leopard.



After lots of driving, John spots one! We see it! He is lovely; he is asleep at the top of a huge tree, (with his mornings Kill) – what a fantastic thing to see!



qGo back to camp at 11.00 for brunch. Inno has made sausages, hash browns, pancakes and beans, and lots of watermelon for afters. We then have to pack up our tents after 2 nights here and leave at 1.00pm. On the way back we went to the Serengeti visitor centre for a look round and an ice cream, we are now back in the Nnorongoro Conservation Area.





We then went to visit a Massai Village – it was fab! An amazing experience and lots of fun. The Massai men and women sing to us to welcome us to their village, we join in on a dance with them – great fun!





One of Massai men gave us a tour and took us into one of their houses; he said he had killed 2 Lions! Wander round the village and visit the kindergarten class – all the kids are very cute, and an older child was leading the class.





Buy a bracelet and a warrior’s ceremonial dance pole, and take lot of photos. Leave the village at 4.00pm and travel to our next campsite – on the way we get a puncture! Arrive at Simba campsite, right on the edge of the Nnorongoro Crater! Wow!



Set up all our tents, and then go for a very cold shower. Sit down for tea in an undercover hut – it is very cold here, actually need to put on our fleeces! Inno made vegetable soup, pasta and meat stew – lovely. Half the group went to bed, and the rest of us stayed up to talk to John about the trip so far. Go to bed at 10.00pm – absolutely freezing!

Thursday 28th September
Wake up at 6.00am, it is very cold! Breakfast is at 6.30am; we have eggs and toast, and lots of cups of tea! Head to Nnorongoro Crater – what a view, its fabulous! John and Marrovet are always telling us things about the animals and landscape – they know everything! John knows lots of facts about the Crater and said he is going to test us today! Eek!



Travelling down into the Crater, you feel like you’re in another world hidden down below, home to all these amazing animals, and see their way of life – herds of Zebra and Wildebeest are moving across the crater, it was fabulous to see, and 4 huge lions were hunting the Zebras and the Wildebeest!







We then went to see a Hippo pool, it was in a gorgeous setting, and they were all lazing around in the sun, including a lovely lion! He was stretched out rolling on his back!







The Crater was full of animals, all going about their daily business, it was beautiful to see. We saw some Hyenas, Ostriches, Warthogs, and elephants, and a pride of Lions. In the distance we even saw 2 Black Rhinos – we felt very privileged to catch a glimpse of them. A Lion came and sat right next to our jeep so we couldn’t drive off – absolutely amazing!



The Crater is a real gem, the rolling green and yellow landscape is spectacular – you could stay here forever. There was a lovely alkaline lake in the centre of the crater, where there were flocks of pink Flamingos – brilliant!





Eventually we have to say goodbye and go back to camp. At 2.00pm we had some lunch – rice and chicken, and then we packed up our tents ready to leave. Drive for about an hour to Karatu campsite, arrive at about 4.00pm. It’s a great campsite, where we had our tents put up for us, whilst we sat and had a drink – it was marvellous. There was a lovely little bar – and they were playing music!

A few of us went for a lovely shower, and chilled out on the grass. A graduation ceremony is happening and there are loads of young peoples singing and dancing. At 8.00pm Inno called us for tea, he had made mashed potatoes and a stew – lovely! We all stayed up until 1.00pm laughing and talking, even Inno came to join us.

Friday 29th September
Wake up at 6.45am, and go for breakfast at 7.30am. Inno has made pancakes! Pack up our tents ready to move on – it has started to rain. Leave Karatu and head for Tarangire. Stop at a market on the way so that Inno can pick up some more food for us.



We stopped at another market that was selling African gifts. We bought a lovely carved wooden fruit bowl, and a wooden chess set – all the pieces carved out perfectly. We also bought a tinga tanga painting for home! Arrive at Tarangire at 12.00 - it’s sweltering! Set up our tents, whilst Inno prepares lunch – tuna salad, vegetable stew and spaghetti – followed by bananas!



Go out on a game drive at 2.30pm – it rain on and off all afternoon, but we still had a great time. The landscape here is a lot greener and absolutely beautiful, I love elephants, and John said this is the place to see them. He was right – I have never seen so many in one place, and they are huge!



I am amazed at the amount of baby elephants as well – especially when they start to run to keep up with the rest of the group – their little ears flapping around and their tiny tooty trunks – adorable! We see so many animals here – Giraffes, Zebra, Wildebeest, Mongoose, and storks, Waterbucks, Eagles, Vultures, Warthogs and Buffalo – it was great!











Go back to camp at 6.00pm – it is still raining. Inno has tea all ready for us when we get back – he has made some traditional African dishes for us to try! Marrovet went to get beer for everyone and some Fanta for the girls – bless him.

It was pitch black by 7.00pm, so after tea, Inno built a campfire for us to sit around! A proper campfire in the middle of nowhere, it is so exciting! All 12 of us sat around laughing g and joking, it is the best night! John and Marrovet are lovely and say that they hope we have really enjoyed the trip as much as they have. Go to bed at 10.30pm, I am so sad its our last night! I can hear Hyenas howling in the distance!

Saturday 30th September
Wake up at 6.00am – have our last breakfast together – it’s a shame we were swarmed by wasps! It rained loads in the night, so everyone is a bit damp, and the tents are soaked.



Before we set off this morning we all got together to say a big thank you to John, Marrovet and Inno, and to give them a tip from all of us, it was lovely. Pack up and leave Tarangire at about 8.30am – it is so sad.

On the way back to Arusha, John stopped at a shop on the roadside in Arusha, where they sell Tanzanite – it is beautiful! We haven’t bought any credit cards with us – probably for the best though! Leave there about 10.30pm and head to a small airport in Arusha. Drop off one of the ladies at the airport, as she is going on the Zanzibar extension. We all hug each other; it is so sad, feel like we are losing good friends, as we all got on so brilliantly. John then took us back to ‘Tropical Trails’, where we had a drink, and a chat, then onward to the Karama Lodge. Give John a huge hug – he has made this trip so brilliant, and is one of the nicest guys I have ever met.

We all sat in the lounge and ordered some sandwiches, soaking up the last of the atmosphere before we leave. A bus came to pick us up at 3.00pm to take us back to Kilimanjaro airport. Our flight back to Addis Ababa is at 6.30pm, sleep for most of it, as we are so shattered! Arrive there at 9.15pm, have a wander round and try to eat some food with the meal vouchers they gave us – not as lovely as Innocents cooking!



Our flight back to London leaves at 2.00am. On the plane we all sleep on and off till we land at 9.40am. Say our goodbyes and head off home. We have swapped email addresses with everyone so we can swap photos and stay in touch. This holiday has been a really gem, and I have really enjoyed myself."

Kirsty and Alan went on The Adventure Company's Serengeti Explorer trip.

For more information about our Serengeti Explorer tour or to find out about the other tours The Adventure Company have departing for Tanzania, please do visit our website.

Have you been on an Adventure Company trip? Or maybe you are waiting to leave, thinking of booking, or simply want to meet other travellers? Why not sign up for our new community area, where you can share tips, upload photos, write blogs and meet other travellers who could be on your trip!

Thanks for reading,
The Adventure Company
"Adventure is our middle name"

The Adventure Company: Into the depths of Africa!

This week, James Ingham shares his travel diary with us following the time he spent on our Delta to Victoria Falls trip to Botswana

"I was lucky enough to have just done part of the Delta to Victoria trip (trip code BS); spending two days in the Delta and two days in Moremi National Park and there are two over riding & life changing aspects I took out from the experience, which I’d like to share.

One, coming from the UK, being in environment dominated by the animal kingdom truly turned my world upside down. We live in such a populated island, the only wildlife we see on a regular basis are birds – well the last few days certainly turned that on it’s head…everything had a place and purpose, the whole environment was the result of thousands of years evolution; perfectly symbiotic. The Okavango Delta is large enough for natural migration patterns which not many other places can provide nowadays. Secondly, no mobile reception, TV, laptops, news, or worries of work – this is one of the most tranquil and serene holidays I have ever had it really showed me how little we need to live happily.

So, here are the highlights

Day One
We flew into Maun, described by one of the travellers as the frontier town for the Delta, and it certainly had that feel to it; it’s where most people start We explored the High Street and then enjoyed a 45minute evening flight over the Delta, spotting herds of elephants and zebras, but crucially, we got a sense of the scale of the wilderness; it’s a staggering 16000sqkm!





Days Two & Three
After a short drive in the Land Cruiser we entered the Delta’s designated wildlife area, once we passed the massive buffalo fence which splits the wilderness from the grazing land we were instantly hit by wildlife – a great introduction. Within two minutes there were baboons crossing the road, followed 30 seconds later by hippos relaxing in a waterhole. The 45 minute off-road drive continued to the polling station to meet our guides was and in that time we saw ostriches, giraffes, Tsebes and many birds.



Then it was into the Mokorros for a unique bush experience; being punted through the reeds, enjoying the sun and witty rapport. We arrived at our campsite, which some pollers had set up before out arrival. The wild campsites deserve a mention, the pollers put up and took done most parts, but when we were in Moremi we helped the guides, putting up tents and washing up, leaving them to manage the fire and the cooking, but help was always appreciated and every was willing to chip in. The outdoor showers and toilets were are really unique experience – particularly the shower in Moremi - I found myself lathering up looking out over a herd of elephants and a pod of hippos, definitely one of my best showers…



Here in the Delta, the mokorro pollers took us on walking safaris in the early morning and evening, which were very memorable for me – seeing these guides use their tracking knowledge to uncover herds of elephants, zebras, impala and giraffes – the whole experience was so natural it was breathtaking – nothing but bush land between us and the animals just 50 metres away and I, or they, never felt threatened. The most memorable experience here was taking a mokorro trip to see a hippo pool in the early evening – it was fascinating watching their interaction between themselves and us, all against a beautiful tropical sunset.



Days Four & Five
From here we got back in the Land Cruiser and drove up to Moremi with our local Botswanan guide, Pass. Moremi is known for being rich in wildlife – typifying Botswana’s policy of a low volume of visitors but at a higher price and this certainly added to the experience.





It was as game drive should be seen, on most the morning or evening drives we would see just 2- 4 other vehicles in 2-3 hours; a far cry from my initial perception of one leopard lying in the sun and eight trucks around it. For this Botswana is special, you really feel immersed in the wildness. No more so than at night, when you are around the campfire chatting and you hear hippos grunting the background, hyenas calling out and elephants trumpeting. In the reserve you’re not allowed to get out of the truck so our two guides are busy pointing out the game, there were so many amazing birds and animals, but the real highlight was watching a stampede of elephants come across the bush towards our truck. I’ll never forget this, lucky because my images of it were not so great...

This is an abridged summary of my few days in Botswana. I had a great time and I’m happy to talk to anyone about it. It far surpassed my initial expectations and I have come back with better feel for what life is all about. I learnt so much about the animal kingdom, got a real sense of purpose and I can not thank my guides enough- just great, super, amazing, awesome… "

James went on our Delta to Victoria Falls trip, but we also offer five other tours to Botswana. Visit our website to find out more.

Thanks for reading,
The Adventure Company

The Adventure Company: Reaching Everest Base Camp!

On our Facebook recently, we've have lots of enquiries from fans and past customers who are curious as to what its like to reach Everest Base Camp and what they should expect.

We've never been one to leave our customers in the dark, and with the help of Jo Murphy, her extensive travel diary is our blog of the week.

Here's hoping this clears up any queries with you all, but as always ask us by leaving a comment or sending an email if you wish to know anything more!

"Everest Base camp Trek 27th March 2009

Prep
After 6 months of waiting, my dream was about to begin… but first I had to squeeze 19 days worth of clothes into one teeny weeny rucksack…. Ok maybe not teeny weeny, but 15kg is not a lot for a girl!, I find it quite an achievement that I mamnaged to pack just one pair of shoes, - and even those were slippers…. Amazing!





Day 1
After a long day of travelling, scoffing haribo, and getting to know my fellow adventurures, we finally arrive in Kathmandu. Straight away we are hit by the hustle and bustle, a complete culture shock to anybody who has never experienced a completely different way of life. The sheer amount of people in the streets, the smells, the colours. One thing I can clearly remember from out first introduction to Kathmandu, is the local police shutting off a whole street because a cow decided it fancied a nap in the road!

After a “scenic” journey through Kathmandu, we arrived at out hotel, the Tibet hotel, really nice place. We had a bit of an exploration, ventured down to Thamel, saw all the rickshaws, hundreds of shops selling everything you need for the trek, - wished I had listened to previous travellers now! Would have saved a lot of money!

Early evening went back to the hotel, met all the rest of out group, had a meeting, short introduction into what we would be doing, then off for tea! – or as Paul would call it “dinner” , differences between the north/south divide amongst the English crowd quickly became apparent!

After a lovely dinner, myself, Nicky, Hayley and Laura, decided to use our short time in Kathmandu wisely, and explore the place, unfortunately, we stumbled into a Nepalese “dance” bar, were we were treated to an hour of erm… “exotic” and slightly weird dance show! But we wouldn’t have had it any other way, was a fantastic night trying out the famous Everest beer, and getting to know each other!

Day 2: Exploring Kathmandu
So Raj, our guide, had informed us to be up and ready to go at 9am, in order to get around all the places we needed to see. Myself and Hayley, didn’t get off to the best start, as we only woke up at 9.20am, to banging on the door!! Oops!
Nevertheless, we got on our way to our first stop, Swayambunath Stupa, aka – monkey temple. We spent about an hour looking around, visiting prayer wheels, watching the locals praying, and generally just taking in the sights, and you guessed it, watching the Columbus monkeys, roaming freely around the temple.



Second stop was Durbur Square, which immediately you feel like you have walked into China, the buildings and statues stand apart from the surrounding areas. All you can see are brightly dressed local holy men, dressed in orange robes, tip – don’t take their photo without asking, as they tend to chase you for money!



Also look out for the rather “interesting” wood sculptures carved around the rafters of the buildings – lets just say the Nepalese are a bit on the kinky side!



After stopping for lunch, we went to our third and final destination, which to be honest was a bit of a shocker. We went to Pashupatinath, an ancient temple complex resting on the edge of the Baghmati river. The stretch of river is devoted to hindu cremations, and when we arrived, there were several taking place.

We were literlly sitting 50 feet on the other side of the river watching these rituals taking place. I found it a very surreal expericne, several bodies were buring, and one was led on the floor wrapped in orange cloth waiting for the ceremony. I felt slightly strange for witnessing something that I felt should be a private ceremony. Yet this was a hindu ceremony, and it was so interesting to witness it first hand.



Day 3: “Scenic flight to Lukla”
Scenic is word word to describe it alright!, I can also think of several others – nerve racking, gut wrentching, vom inducing, to name but a few, though not to put you off, this is one experience you will take with you for life, flying in an 18 seater toy plane 14,000 feet up over the himilayas is just amazing. Apparently our flight was considered “very successful” why was that Raj? – because we didn’t crash?





After 40 minutes, and a slight scary moment, we finally landed at Lukla airport, I use airport in the loosest term!.



We started our trek…3 hours trekking. Lukla (2840m) - Phakding (2610m)

Immediately, you feel at one with nature, you’ve been dumped in the middle of the mountains, and its just the most amazing feeling of freedom, now you really feel like your trekking to Everest Base Camp.



We arrived at Phakding shortly before 3pm, and settled into our first night experiencing teahouses. It was surprisingly nice. Much better than I was expecting, basically just a shed, - complete with flushing loo! – felt like I'd won the lottery!



First night sampling the local food which we were to be accustomed with for the next 12 nights, first of many many garlic soups for Paul, Fried egg and chips for Laura, Pizza for james, Mo Mo’s for Tanja, and most other people, Veggie fried noodles, veggie friend rice, or veggie noodle soup!

Day 4: 7 hours trekking Phakding (2610m) - Namche Bazar (3430m)

So after a relatively comfy night in Phakding, and my first sampling of lemon and honey tea, (yum yum!!) we set off for the famous namche Bazaar. Over the course of several hours, we were to steadily climb 800 metres. The majority of the trek today was at a slight gradient, or what Raj would refer to as “nepali flat”, that term, we would later discover, was just Raj’s way of getting our lazy backsides up a hill!

After crossing the last of 5 highly suspended bridges over the famous “Milk River”, we started out steep ascent up to Namche. This part of the trek was strenuous. But so scenic, we were walking through beautiful forests and amongst snowcapped mountains, which more than made up for the hard work.



Finally arriving at Namche Bazaar, the clouds had come down and everybody was feeling a little tired. Some had a small kip before tea, others went exploring.



That night a few of our team, Myself. Laura, Louise, Dale, Anne, and Prakash stayed up playing cards games, we had such a laugh, brought it home how little you actually need to keep you happy, just a few cards, and a hot chocolate. Was a great night.


Day 5: Acclimatising Namche (3430m) - Syangboche (3720m) – Namche (3430m)

So after a surprisnlgly good nights sleep, managed to sneak into the hot shower at 6am!, then me and gary went for a walk around namche, One thing that’s great about waking up so early, are the views, after arriving the previous day in cloud, we had no idea of the scene that met us when we woke up. Namche being nestled in a horseshoe, seems protected 360 degrees by the most stunning scenery. Waking up this early you get to see the sunrise which just gives the best start to the day!

Today was our first acclimatiasation day and we were to climb 350 metres up namche Hill, we got to visit the namche museum, and also had our first view of everest. Was an amazing feeling to be stood so far away looking at where we were aiming. This would be the first and last time we would see everest until kala patthar. The mountain looked so beautiful and peaceful, a total contrast to the book several of the team were reading simultaneously – Jon Krakauer’s "Into Thin Air!”. It made me realize just how dangerous something so beautiful can actually be.



From here we continued up to our acclimatization point, after a climb of roughly 90 minutes, we stayed at the top for an hour or so, relaxing, taking in the views and slowly getting panda eyes!






Day 6: 6 hours trekking. Namche Bazar (3430m) - Tengboche (3860m)

Today the trek started off with a small climb, during the course of the day we were to drop 600 metres into the forest, then climb up 1030 metres to Tengboche, again following the milk river. After lunch we had a 3 hour steep climb, this was tough, especially now as the lack of oxygen had started to become apparent. But we were given plenty of rest stops, however those were quickly followed with lots of “jam jams”





For the best part of the day the weather was amazing, though the higher we went and the later in the day, the temparture semmed to drop dramatically. We eventually arrived at tengboche and immediately saw Tengboche monastry. A beautiful colourful building standing onto of the mountain. We had a venure round before tea, which was well deserved after the strenuous climb today, - although sneakily, Gary, Paul, James and David had already filled their tummies at the tengboche bakery!, - without telling any of the girlies! Very naughty!



Day 7: 5 hours trekking. Tengboche (3860m) - Dingboche (4410m)

The day started with an easy descent of 75 metres, - but as we had come to learn, for every down, theres an up, just around the corner, and usually 10 times as big! Today I had started to suffer with the headaches, I felt particualry sick and dizzy, Raj our guide was brilliant, he monitered several of us, as we came down with slight signs of altitude sickness. He gave us advice and kept checking on us. I found it particvualry frustrating, as I had trained for a few months beforehand, and I felt my body was failing me. Today was a struggle.

After lunch, I found the day got quite difficult, I felt really bad, and was unfortunately reduced to tears because of the headaches. After a bit of comfort talk from my fantastic team, I got the strength to carry on. Prakash, another of our guides kept me chatting for the last leg of the trek, which worked wonders in keeping my mind off the pain.

We eventually arrived at Dingboche, nestled in a valley, the accommodation was really comfortable. After a bit of a rest, id begun to feel better and Laura and I went for a wonder.



Day 8: Acclimatizing Dingboche (4410m) - Nangkar Tshang (4840m) - Dingboche (4410m)
So today we had another acclimatization day, It was pretty tough, about 2 hours of steep climbing. The lack of oxygen was certainly taking hold now, and I was struggling to catch my breath. I think most people in the group found it difficult, but nevertheless we made it. We stopped at the top for about 45 minutes and the most amzing time, we were sitting ontop of the clouds,, every so often they would clear briefly for about 20 seconds to reveal the most amazing view, then dissapear again.



Day 9: 5 hours trekking. Route: Dingboche (4410m) - Lobuche (4910m)
Today we set off from Dingboche and walked a “nepali” flat for about 2 hours, the scenery was amazing, the weather blazing hot, everybody seemed in high spirits.





Raj had told us the night before that if the altitude was going to affect us, it would happen after lunch, After a 90 minute trek up a very very steep mountain. When we reached the top, we came to a memorial site for all the mountaineers who have lost their lives on everest. It was such a peaceful place. We stayed here, reading the placques and taking in the views for around half an hour. Raj was right, this was the point when I got the most horrendous headache ive ever experienced. This is the day I finally had to take my diamox.



From here we had a 2 hour flat trek to Lobouche. A few of us were suffering by now with headaches and dizziness, but we still made it. That night, most of us were too tired to stay up and most were in bed by 8pm. We had a big day in the morning, - base camp!.



Day 10 : 8.5 hours trekking. Route: Lobuche (4910) - Base Camp (5365m) - Gorak Shep (5140m)
Today I woke up in a strange mood, very nervous, scared, and very emotional. I couldn’t touch breakfast, similar to a good few others in the group, - except of course Paul and Dave!

We set off at 5am, and had a 3 hour trek to Gorak Shep. The first part of the day was tough, Nicola was really suffering due to the altitude, and several of the group had pulled right back and were taking it slow today. The temperature was freezing. Although spirits were down, after an hour or so when we saw the sun rise over the mountains, we started to come round.



8 am and we had finally reached gorak Shep, Most people byt this point were totally exhausted, but with base camp less than 3 hours away, we all seemed to find a little bit of spare energy to spur on. We forced down a bit of breakfast and carried on.



The trek to base camp was really nice and peaceful, difficult with lots of ups and downs. The group seemed to go quiet, and we all got our heads down, taking in the beautiful scenery and looking out towards the khumba ice fell. The sun was shining and base camp was approaching.



It was approcimately 1.45pm when we reached base camp.





Tired, exhausted, emotional, but successful, a few of us had a cry, we had finally reached our destination, several of us endured a lot of pain and exhaustion, but we got here. I didn’t quite know what to expect, before I came to Nepal, people had told me basecamp was a “dump” and full of litter. But it wasn’t at all. We stayed here for around an hour, taking photos, just spending time alone, taking in the views, watching Dale with his hedgehogs he had carried all the way up, celebrating with a tube of Pringles at 17,600 feet, ( pic 31) and toasting with champagne… ok forget the champagne…more like mineral water, but hey!





We finally left basecamp and headed back to Gorak shep, good timing, as half an hour in, the clouds came down and the snow started falling….

Day 11: 9.5 hours trekking. Gorak Shep (5140m) - Kala Pathar (5550) - Orsho (4130m) (or as I like to call it – hell!)

So today, we had two options, we could attempt kala patthar at 18,192 feet, or we could start our descent down to Orsho. Over night however, the skies above everest had decided to dump a few feet of snow on our doorstep. We were told from the beginning that not all of us would have the strength to attampet kala patthar, as it was a tough 2 hour climb at freezing temperatures, made even worse by the snow. Nevertheless 11 out of our 14 set off at 5am to attempt the mountain. I managed to climb for an hour and a half before finally giving up, I got to see the sunrise over everest, manage one quick photograph looking distionctively in pain, be hand fed a snickers bar by one of our guides. Then, I quickly get off the mountain. In a flood of tears due to pain and dissapointment, I sat having my fingers and toes thawed out in Gorak Shep by 4 sherpas. Ive never felt pain like that in my life!.



It was another hour or so until we discovered who had made Kala Pathar. Paul, David, Gary, James, Dale, Anne, Louise. They came back with a couple of war wounds. Dale had received a massive gash on his leg after falling on a rock, Gary had dislocated his shoulder, and been made to walk half an hour before having it popped back in! but all in all the heroes all made it back in one piece, - their photos looked amazing.



We eventually all caught up with each other in a massive snow storm, followed by blazing sunshine, most of us owe our attractive panda eyes to this day!

Day 12: 6 hours trekking. Orsho (4130m) - Namche Bazar (3430m)
Back down to namche, and all the girls could think about was a hot shower, and the boys a cold beer! Typical! We celebrated later on in the night by visiting the local nightclub with our guides. Was a brilliant night!



Day 13: 3.25 hours trekking. Namche Bazar (3430m) - Phakding (2610m)
In the words of James, this was the day that the “pathetic testosterone driven kids” – aka – boys!!! decided to literally run 700 metres downhill to phakding and try to beat Prakash.

The girls were in stitches watching the boys try and race each other, we held back taking in the scenery for what will probably be the last time for many of us.

When we arrived at Phakding we were greeted by the next group heading up to base camp, it brought back memories from the first night of our trek, we were swapping stories and giving advice.

Meanwhile Nicola and myself were scaring the sherpas by unplaiting my braids id worn for ease for the last 3 weeks. The look on their faces was hilarious as they were watching all my hair end up in a pile on the table. It was soooo nice to finally be able to scratch my head! And feel like a girl! Haha





Day 14: 3 hours trekking. Phakding (2610m) - Lukla (2840m)

The last day of our trek, I think most of our group, except the boys, decided to take this one slowly, it was the last time we would see the mountains so close, the weather was amazing, the views simply stunning and the walk so relaxing. I think all of us at some point got a little emotional that our trek was finally coming to an end.

That night we stayed in Lukla, - what a memorable night!, - we had a meal altogether with our guides and sherpas, then partied sherpa style. Then wondered down to the local bar for cocktail happy hour! I think a few of our group forgot what awaited us the following morning…..yeti airlines! and probably drank a wee too much than they should have…. Brilliant!



Day 15: Lukla (2840m) – Kathmandu

Today was our final day in mountains, it was emotional, we had to say goodbye to our guides, Iswur, Chhewang, Nara and prakash, and our sherpas. Then hopped on yeti airline for our “scenic flight to kathmandu” – I think you already know what comes next so I wont go into detail!

Few hours later and we are back in the smog, a whole day ahead of us to explore the hustle and bustle of Kathamdu. That night Raj took us out to a well known restaurant in Thamel, - Rum Doodles, we had a brilliant meal, and at the end we got given a foot to sign…. this is when team jam jam was born…. Out foot now hangs proudly from the ceiling displaying “team jam jam – the toast of everest base camp” on one side, and something else which I wont tell you on the other! So if you see it in the future take a pic for us so we know its still there!



Day 16 : Kathmandu

Another free day to shop and explore… and sunbath and swim… yep, a few of our group had found a little haven across from our hotel, 7 stories up we were pampering ourselves in the sauna and stemroom of the Radison hotel. Just what the doctor ordered!

Day 17: Homeward Bound
Today was another emotional day, most of the group were traveling back to heathrow together, but we had to say goodbye to Tanya and Gary beforehand which was sad.



My experience…..
Everest Base Camp was something id wanted to do for a long time, but I kept putting it off, until one day about a year ago I just went for it. For 4 months beforehand I'd trained and researched about my trip. The time flew by and before I knew it I was sat on a plane with my fellow adventurers. For me this trip was the start of a new chapter in my life. It truly was a voyage of self discovery, I went through hard times and painful times, days when I was so happy I didn’t want them to end and days when I felt so sick I didn’t want to carry on, above all absoutley fantastic times.

I was so lucky to be with the most amazing group who truly made it for me, as a solo traveller I was worried about the people I would be with, in case I didn’t get on with them, but thankfully, through the wonders of The Adventure Company Facebook several of us had had contact for a good few months, - something which I strongly advise any grioup doing this trek. We already had a bond before we even arrived at Heathrow.

14 people from totally different backgrounds, different ages and different countires, all brought together by one mountain, we all had something in common, this was something that we all felt passionate for. I wil have memories from this trek for the rest of my life, and hopefully friends too. This is just the start of my adventures, and already, myself and Nicky are booked onto another trip with the Adventure Company. If our next trip is only half as good as Everest base camp, then it will be fantastic.

So thankyou to the adventure company, to Raj our guide, all our other guides and sherpas, and our team jam jam, Marjorie Davey, Anne and Dale Foden, Tanja Heijnemans, Paul Hopkins, Laura James, Gary Jordan, Louise Marsden, Clare Morton, Nicola Moss, James Richardson, Hayley Rose and David Vu, for truly the best experience of my life."

We're sure you agree- an absolutely fantastic account of a great trip. Find out more about Everest Base Camp by visiting The Adventure Company website.

Thanks kindly to Jo for taking the time and effort spent in sending us her experience, and thank YOU for reading!

The Adventure Company

The Adventure Company: Pair in Peru!

Ever wondered what it is like to take on an adventure with your dearly beloved? Kirsty and her partner Allen recently went to Peru and completed The Inca Trail. She's kindly submitted her travel diary for us to browse through:



"Friday 24th August
Check in with Iberia airlines at 5.00am and pop into Wetherspoons for a fry up, something we probably won’t get on the Inca trail. The flight from Heathrow left at 9.00am and we are now on our way to Madrid. Arrive in Madrid at 12.00noon, and then run ‘Home Alone’ style to catch our 12.40 flight to Lima. This flight is for 10 3/4 hours but with thoughts of the Inca Trail in our mind we just doze off for the majority of the flight – I love it when that happens.

Arrive in Lima, collect our luggage and meet our guide Nela – she is lovely, along with a guy who is also booked on this trip with us. Nela drove the 1 hour trip to Miraflores in Lima – I instantly felt excited for the trip ahead as the roads were manic and there were people and cars everywhere – such a buzz, she said 8 million people live in Lima – wow. Arrive at our hotel ‘Leon de Oro’ at 7.30pm. It is a lovely hotel, and our room is massive – it has 2 double beds! We then meet the other guy on our trip and go for a wander round Lima and get some food from a lovely little place called ‘Chefs Café’. The streets are so lively and the atmosphere is great! Go to bed at 10.00pm – absolutely shattered!

Saturday 25th August
Wake up at 6.30am and have a lovely hot shower. Wander down for breakfast and meet the other two people also on the same trip, a father and daughter – already feels like we are making new friends. Nela then came to collect us to take us to Lima airport for our domestic flight to Cusco. The flight left at 10.40, and is 1hr long. The mountain views from the plane are fantastic. Arrive at Cusco airport, some Peruvians are playing music in the entrance – this gave us a great welcome. As soon as you step outside you are surrounded by Mountains, its so refreshing. We are at about 11,000ft, so far I feel great.

We then meet our guide Leo, he’s a lovely guy and makes us all feel at ease. He then drove us the 15min drive to Cusco. The streets of Cusco are even busier than Lima, and the whole place is colourful, and there is such fantastic lively atmosphere. Arrive at our hotel ‘Hotel Suenos del Inka’ It is on a small cobbled street, up some small steps. It is wonderful. The hotel is lovely with wooden carved stairs and stone floors. Check in and have some Cocoa tea – not crazy about that, but give it ago, its meant to be good for altitude. Leo welcomes us to Cusco and gave us a small brief of what will happen today and tomorrow. We have the most amazing view from our room, the window is the full length of the room and you feel like you can see the whole of Cusco lay out before you.



Meet up with everyone and Leo at 2pm, and drive to Sacsayhuaman – believed to be an Inca temple. The site was incredible and the large rocks fit together so perfectly.



The temperature is rising – it is so hot now. Next we visited Qengo, a temple of the Incas, where they made offerings to mother earth, and Tambomachay. This is a natural spring, which the Inca’s built around using magnificent stones.



Next we went to Puka Pukara, believed to be a military base, again wonderful remains of Inca craftsmanship. Leo is so knowledgeable about Cusco and the Inca’s, and so passionate about it.



We then travelled back to Cusco, and visited the Cathedral. It was amazing and huge! The detail and craftsmanship is outstanding and the amount of gold and silver used I have never known before. We then visited a monastery.



Leo showed us some great examples of Inca’s precise geometry used when carving rocks at exact angles. He also showed us some original Inca walls, which were only found after an earthquake, they were perfect, as they had been covered with Lime, hidden by the Spanish. Had such a great day here, Cusco Square is very lively and has a fountain in the middle, with everything situated perfectly around it.



Back at the hotel Leo talked to us about the Inca Trail and gave us our duffel bags, which the porters will carry for us on the trail. In the evening we all met up to go out for something to eat, at a small restaurant called ‘Mythology’.

Sunday 26th August
Wake up with a headache, but slept great, go down for some breakfast – the food was lovely. Meet up with the others – they all look a bit grey, but it doesn’t cloud our excitement. This morning Leo came to brief us some more on the Inca trail, then we organised our duffel bags. We all met up at 9.45 and took a walk to the main square, it is really busy and they are having a parade.



There are processions of Military, schools and bands. They are all playing and marching and singing – it was great, they have such a great spirit and the atmosphere was brilliant.

We all went to shelter from the heat and had a lovely cool drink in a café sitting on a balcony overlooking the square. This morning we all changed some currency and found a little chemist to buy some altitude tablets and re-hydration salts – better to be safe than sorry. We all then went to an Italian ‘Tratoria Adriano’, where we had lunch and had a toast to the Inca Trail – fingers crossed we can all make it. Go back to the hotel, where we check our GPS we are now at 11,300 ft – wow.



At 2pm Leo take us to Cusco market, it was thriving with locals, selling everything and anything – fruit, vegetables, flowers, clothes, spices, bread – you really felt like you’d pinched a bit of local life. Everyone was bustling around it really was lovely.

Leo then took us for a walk of some local sites. We all got into 2 taxis and set off, travelling back past Sacsayhuaman, we visited a shop selling Alpaca clothes and rugs. A lady explained how they are made and the difference between the types of clothes produced. We saw a 100% Alpaca rug that would cost around $1900!! We then walked back to Cusco with great views of the town, and saw some houses built into the mountainside and children running around – what a way of life.



We walked back to the main square, where we paid Leo the local payment and arranged to meet tomorrow morning at the hotel for 6.30am. We all went back to the hotel and weighed our duffel bags. Mine was only 4.6kg, which is great as you are only allowed to take 7kg on the trail.



We all met up in the evening and went to a great place called ‘Macondo’ – a really funky place, all lit up with paintings everywhere and great music. Have such a great laugh, and the food was gorgeous! We went back to the hotel at 9.00pm.

Monday 27th August
Wake up at 5.00am – Yuk! Have a lovely shower then go down for breakfast at 6.00am, can hardly eat as feel quite nervous this morning. Leo came to collect us at 6.30am. Travel to Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley. There are beautiful terraces and buildings here, what a view. It is a traditional Inca village, and Leo said from afar the village landscape is in the shape of a Llama. There is also a giant Inca head sculpted into the mountainside.





As a group we all walk around, doing some up hill walking makes me feel out of breath, which quite surprised me. Pacing myself on the trail is going to be vital. Leave there and travel for 30mins to Chilca – the start of the Inca trail. Allen gets some supplies…..



Start the trail at 10.30am. The first part of the trek was a very comfortable walk; we walked past forests and through a lot of vegetation. The sun was shining, though there was some cloud cover. We followed the Umbamba River. The paths were quite narrow so we were a bit follow my leader, but it gave us plenty of time to take in our surroundings.



We arrive at the first checkpoint KM 82 Piscacucho at 12.15. We are officially on the trail! The walk had been gentle and the views fantastic, so we were all in high spirits. Leo also points out all kinds of plants and trees. We all eat our lunch at this checkpoint and have our passports stamped, we are at about 9,000ft. We left the checkpoint via a swing bridge, some parts of the trail now were quite tough, but the views made up for it.



We reached the Inca ruins of Qanabamba, a small site of houses and terraces; it is so amazing to see them in the middle of nowhere! We carry on following the Umbamba River.



We see a few houses on the trail where locals are living today and some little goats - they are very inquisitive, standing on top of the rocks sussing us all out. The Umbamba River has cut a mouth in the mountainside and we follow it up and down, some parts are fairly steep.





Leo took us past some amazing Inca ruins Patallaqta, they were built in the side of the mountain in a perfect position for the sun.



Finally we arrived at our first campsite in the Sacred Valley at 3.10pm, everything is set up for us, and the porters bring us each a bowl of hot water at our tents. The campsite is in the middle of the mountains and has a stream running through it.



We all meet in the food tent at 4.30pm for ‘Happy Hour’ as Leo calls it, here we discuss the day, and talk about tomorrow, we all eat bread and jam, crisps and crackers round hot drinks – this is wonderful. We then went for a walk round the site – and found the ‘Poop tent’ – hooray! The camp site was next to a little ‘village’ there were a few houses, a small farm and some children playing with a ball, lots of animals were roaming around, we had a chat to the local children and walked back to the camp site.



Tea was at 6.30pm and we were amazed at what they made. We had spinach soup, followed by chicken and mashed potatoes, with a crème caramel dessert – all very good. After we sat and talked to Leo about tomorrow, Leo said the walk will be a bit tougher and the altitude will start to rise more rapidly. We all went to bed at 8.00pm, it has been a great day and we all feel really positive. The sky is so clear and you can see every star, all you can hear is the running water in the background.

Tuesday 28th August
Wake up at 5.30am, we slept ok, but were a bit cold in the night. It is great to wake up in the Sacred Valley surrounded by mountains. This morning there are ducks, chickens, a dog and a cow in the campsite!! Breakfast is at 6.30am – bacon and vegetables – very nice. Leo introduced all the porters to us this morning, the youngest is 25yrs and the eldest is 58yrs, they are remarkable. One porter is called the ‘rabbit’, and he runs ahead to get a good camp spot for tonight. We start the walk at 7.15am, a moderate 1.5 hr walk to the second checkpoint. The vegetation is really green and colourful and there are little bridges along the trail, small houses and donkeys wandering around carrying loads for their owners.



I got in the way of a running donkey, and went flying! – didn’t get hurt and the group found it very funny, apart from Leo – I was fine though.

Once we reached the second checkpoint we took a break and waited for the porters to pass us, it’s amazing how they carry all our stuff on their backs and head! Leave Wayllabamba checkpoint and walk until 10.45am where we stop for lunch. The walk is getting a steeper climb and we feel a little breathless. The porters were brilliant; they walk faster, carry heavy bags and managed to prepare a lovely lunch just sitting waiting for us to arrive.



Our lunch was pasta, chicken, carrots, broccoli, and beans – all very yummy. We had a cup of tea then left the campsite at 12.20pm.

The walk then started to get quite tough, my legs felt quit heavy and breathing was more difficult. We are now above 11,000ft. Allen my partner is really good at keeping me moving as I keep stopping to catch my breath. The views are amazing; we are climbing through tress up large steps, with a running stream down one side of us. There are lovely trees and flowers everywhere, Leo knew the names of everything, I just wished I’d written them down.



We arrive at camp at 1.40pm; we are now according to our GPS at 12,300ft. The porters are busily setting up camp, so we relax in our tents. Wayllabamba is the last human habitation on the trail. Allen and I decide to take our first altitude tablets, as our heads feel a bit squiffy. At 3.30pm Leo took us for a walk around, we are surrounded by mountains, and some are snow capped.



At 4.30pm we sit down and Leo talk to us about tomorrow, it sounds tough we will be starting at 5.30 and doing about 8 hrs of walking depending on pace. A lady and her son wandered up to camp selling water, this will be the last time we can buy some water until we finish the trail.



We all sat around chatting until tea at 6.00pm. Again the food was lovely and we were astonished at how they can cook this, we had Asparagus Soup, followed by rice, beef and vegetables, then for dessert it was apple with blackcurrant sauce. After tea Leo pointed out some of the star constellations. Go to bed at 7.15pm, it is pitch black and very cold, we got into our sleeping bags with our thermals on, and our hats! – Definitely make sure you buy a 3-season sleeping bag!

Wednesday 29th August
Wake up at 4.30am – it is freezing. Pack up our bags, and have a cup of tea and some bread and jam. The porters brought us some hot water to wash our faces, I’ve never been so happy to see someone at 4.30am! Leave the site at 5.45am, and with our head torches switched on we set off, I feel nervous about today as it will be the toughest day and we reach the highest altitude. We have been lucky so far, apart from a minor headache and some slight dizziness we have all felt really good. We start our ascent up the path to reach Dead Woman’s Pass (Abra Warmiwanuska). The path is made up of large stone steps, but they are relentless, the cloud is quite low, so you can’t see very much, but you can see the top of the pass and realise you are walking up through a valley. You feel an incredibly small dot in comparison to the landscape. The porters practically run past us!



We finally reach Dead Woman’s Pass and according to the GPS we are at 13,886ft, it is 7.00am! This was tough, but feel great and no headaches! Feel a bit of a relief as if this is the highest altitude and I feel pretty well I can stop worrying about the rest of the trail. After a group photos where we all look like white ghosts, we start to descend down a very steep path, the cloud is still low, but you can see bushes and flowers all around us, at 8.15am we stop for breakfast.



We have cereal, eggy bread and porridge – lovely. This place is mossy city and it is raining now, but it doesn’t dampen our spirits and we leave at 9.00am for the second pass - Runkuracay Pass, which is about 13,200ft. This was also a tough, steep descent, the paths are all stones, but you need to tread carefully.



We have seen some lovely Inca ruins this morning. We saw Runkuraqay, a religious Inca building, which Leo said was important because of its shape; it was round stone building, built like the sun.

We also visited Sayaqmarka, an inaccessible Inca town/military base discovered by Hiram Bingham whilst on his trek where he discovered Machu Picchu. The views would have been amazing but the cloud was still very low. After lunch we walked the rest of our walk through Cloud Forest, Peru’s rainforest. The forest was very dense and bursting with flowers, lots of orchids and exotic plants and trees – Leo knew all of their names.



We stopped for dinner at 1.00pm; it is very cloudy and has been raining on/off all morning. For dinner we have chicken curry, rice, and potatoes. We finally reached our camp at 3.00pm at Phuyupatamarka – ‘Town above the clouds’. We got quite wet on this section of the walk as it was raining and the humidity was high.



Have a good chat and laugh about the day then go to bed at 7.45pm. We are so excited about reaching Machu Picchu tomorrow.

Thursday 30th August
Wake up at 5.30am to a cup of tea – and its freezing!!! The cloud is still quite low but we can see the snow-capped mountains. I am feeling so excited. Have pancakes for breakfast, then we all tip the porters, we also gave some of the extra socks and t-shirts we had brought, we said a big thank you and hoped they realised how wonderful they had been, and how they really made the trip a lot easier and comfortable for us. We started walking at 7.00am, still in Cloud Forest, still in the rain, but now we start to go down 2000 Inca steps! Now this does test your walking boots!



Go past the ruins of Phuyupatmarka – amazing stone buildings.



Arrive at Intipata just before lunch, take loads of photos here, the terraces here are amazing, and because the cloud is low – they are quite eerie, and look like they are floating.



At 9.15 we arrive at Winaywayna. The terraces here were the best we have seen, brilliant rows of terraces, stone baths and houses, with lovely water springs, 19 in total. The sun finally came out and the site was amazing.



It is split into an upper and lower part, you felt like this was an Inca resting place before they reached the grandeur of Machu Picchu. Spend some time here and have lunch in the camp building. Again the food was lovely, tomato soup, then pasta, potatoes and tuna.



Leave Winaywayna at 11.15am and start our walk to the Sun gate (Intipunku) it is really hot now, and the cloud is clearing up. The trail is at its loveliest, all the trees and bushes are green, and the flowers are gorgeous, and there are so many different types of Orchids. There are also butterflies everywhere.





Finally reach the Sun gate at 1.00pm, climb the steps on my hands. We are all nervous and excited, it is very emotional. Leo who is already at the top is cheering us on, then…. We see it! I start to cry, I’m so happy that we are here, and every second of it was worth it for one glimpse at Machu Picchu. It is fantastic and everything I thought it would be, it really does look magical perched in between all the mountains like a jewel.





After we have taken the first site of Machu Picchu in we start our descent to the lost city, the view gets more amazing the closer you get.



We went past a sacred rock and burial ground, Leo said that Hiram Bingham found 128bodies here on his first visit. Finally our feet touch down – we are here!



There are a lot of day visitors, but I feel we are more deserving of it as we have spent 4 days getting there, and after seeing all the Inca ruins on the way feel a more personal connection to Machu Picchu. We spend a hour or so walking round some of the main pathways and sites, but Leo plans to bring us back here tomorrow morning very early to appreciate Machu Picchu without the crowds.



We have our passports stamped at the gate, we have officially arrived – I love it! We take the bus down the mountain to the village where we are staying tonight – Aguas Calientes. Arrive at our hotel at 2.30pm and have a lovely shower, and finally relax. Meet Leo at 4.30pm and he take us for a walk around the village. We went to a small information centre, all about Machu Picchu, he is so passionate about it – bless him. We then went to a large market, it was lovely, and we bought lots of little souvenirs and had a good look around.



We then went to an Italian place on the main street, the food was lovely and they had big ovens for cooking. This place is brilliant and the atmosphere is fantastic. After we’d eaten Leo left us to go to bed so we stayed out to explore a bit further. We found a lovely bar called ‘Big Brother’ where there were 2 Peruvian bands playing – we had such a great time in here, we had our first drinks here to celebrate the trail! At 10.00pm the heavens opened as we ran back to the hotel, what a great day, one I will never forget.

Friday 31st August
Wake up at 5.15am, get an early breakfast and catch the 6.00am bus up to Machu Picchu, arrive at 6.45am – it is so quiet as there is hardly anyone up here. Leo gave us a tour around the Lost City, and explained the importance of the sun, moon and constellations to the Inca’s. He is fascinated by Machu Picchu and it rubs off on everyone. It is amazing; no photo I take will ever match how magical it is here.





Leo left us at 9.45am to explore on our own. Here the group split up as some wanted to explore and others wanted to sit quietly and contemplate Machu Picchu. We went to explore, I wanted to see everything! We saw the temple or the Sun and Moon, the temple of the Condor, and the Royal tomb, we walked up and down the terraces and visited the storage houses. The Inca’s also made use of water all over the site by creating springs around it and channelling it all over Machu Picchu.



We found large cut rocks used as compasses and sundials, and large rocks used as looking glasses, which were believed to hold water and show the constellations up above. We found various different fountains across the whole site, and marvelled at the Quarry and the huge rocks that the Incas used to cut/ move, I have no idea how. The work and craftsmanship is tremendous and leaves you just in awe of the whole place.



The temperature is rising, it is so hot here, after 3 hours we decide to go outside and see if we can find anyone else from the group. We meet up with the others, and then catch the bus back down. A small boy chased us down the zigzag path by cutting across the road and then waving at us! At the bottom we then took the 25minute walk back down to the village, visiting the Inca/ Machu Picchu Museum and botanical gardens – very interesting.



We met up with Leo, and then all went for dinner in the square. The food was lovely, Guinea Pig was on the menu, but none of us were brave enough. We all then had another wander round and visited another market, and also had an ice cream. At 4.30pm we met Leo and walked to the train station to catch the 5.00pm Peru Rail backpackers train, for the 3hr 15mins journey back to Cusco.





The train was very slow, but the views were really nice and we saw parts of the trail and KM 82 our first checkpoint. We got off the train one stop before Cusco, as Leo said the journey was 15minutes by Taxi, but another 1hr 15mins by train. We arrived back at the same hotel as before, quickly got changed and then walked to the ‘Fallen Angel’ restaurant, which we had previously booked. We had a table booked for 9.30pm, it was a really trendy place, and the food and atmosphere was great. We had asked Leo, and his wife and daughter to come with us, to show our appreciation for everything he had done for us, we tipped Leo and took lots of group photos, he really made the whole holiday brilliant. We all feel really proud of ourselves, and have some fantastic memories. Have a lovely night out, a great ending to the perfect holiday! We left the ‘Fallen Angel’ at 12.00am, aargh! We are up at 4.30am! Back to the hotel for a good night sleep.



Saturday 1st September
Wake up at 4.30am, have a quick shower, and breakfast. Leo arrived at 5.30am to take us to Cusco airport for our flight back to Lima. One of the guys in our group was staying for the Puno extension, but he came with us to the airport to say goodbye. Arrive at the airport and check in our bags, our flight is at 7.15am. Give everyone a hug, Leo said he is no longer our guide but our friend, that was lovely and nearly bought a tear to my eye. The hour flight from Cusco to Lima was quite sad. Nela came to collect us from the airport and took us back to the same hotel in Lima as before. We left our bags in the hotel and went to get some lunch and have a wander round Lima. Do a bit more shopping and walk down to the sea front. It is quite developed here with lots of shops and cafes. We found a star bucks and went for a hot chocolate. We found some more markets and had a look round. We then went back to the hotel at 4.30pm, and Nela came to collect us at 4.45pm. Give everyone a big hug, and promise to keep in touch. Our 10hr flight to Madrid was good – we are so tired we slept through most of it. Arrive back in the UK and go to Victoria station to catch our bus back home. I feel really sad the holiday is over, but feel I am bringing something special back with me. We have had such a wonderful time, I will never ever forget it"

Kirsty and her partner Allen went on The Inca Trail. If you are considering a trip or tour of Peru, the Adventure Company has many tours which cater for families, groups and couples no matter what your age. Visit their website for more information

Thanks for reading,
The Adventure Company

The Adventure Company: Family Fun in Croatia!

This weeks blog comes from Dawn Higgins, a mum who took her two daughters Amy and Lauren on our Active Croatia Family Holiday trip.



She gives us an insight into how easy it is to have a great adventure when you are a single parent, and kindly tells us about the fun the trio encountered!

"Saturday
It was here at last. It had seemed such a long way off when I booked it the previous November. It was our first holiday just the 3 of us, I was both nervous and excited.
My 2 girls aged then 8 and 9 couldn’t wait to set off.

We left home mid morning for the 2 ½ hour drive down to Heathrow Airport. We finally arrived at the off site car park after driving past it several times much to the girls amusement. Car checked in, we were on the minibus on the way to the airport. Too early to check in we went to have lunch, then headed back to check in where we met another mum and her daughter, followed by a dad and his son. We all hit it off straight away. Unfortunately the flight was delayed a couple of hours, but we didn’t mind too much, gave us a chance to get to know each other.

Eventually we boarded the plane which touched down en route in Split, here we met most of the remaining group. Not many of us were left on board the plane now, another 30 minutes or so and we arrived at Zagreb. Two guides met us at the airport and we boarded 2 minibuses and headed off to Korana Village, complete with pack up. We arrived there about 2am, both excited and tired.







We were shown to our accommodation, which comprised of traditional Croatian houses. We occupied 3 of the houses in total, 3 families were in ours. They were basic, but comfortable with a double and single bed. I drew the short straw and had to share with my eldest daughter Amy!! She doesn’t know how to lie still.

Sunday

The next morning we had an early start, breakfast at 9am, where we met our guides for the week - Stefan and Martel. We also met up with the last remaining family, who had travelled from America. Our group comprised of 3 dads, 4 mums, 4 girls and 5 boys aged between 8 and 16.

Straight after breakfast, it was time to get ready for our cycle ride. First of all we were kitted out with appropriate size bike and helmets, all of which the guides saw to. The parents plus Stefan, proceeded to climb up the steep hill out of Korana village, whilst the children with Martel headed off in the minibus to meet us further along the way where it was flat and we could all cycle together.

It was a lovely day, not too hot, cycling along the lanes and through the beautiful peaceful countryside. Everyone was left to cycle at their own pace and no pressure was put on anyone to keep up. The minibus was always there just in case enough was enough.



We cycled for quite a while and eventually arrived at a beautiful little spot beside a shallow river, where we stopped to have lunch which had been supplied for us. Lunch eaten, it was time to go off and explore the caves.



We were all given helmets with lamps and it was good fun clambering through the caves into all the nooks and crannies, then the lights were turned off, pitch black! It was very cold in the caves. (take a sweatshirt if you plan to go!) Once back out into the warm sunshine we had free time to explore, most of us sat by the river whilst the kids played.



Time to head off back to the village, most of the kids had had enough cycling and opted to return to the village by minibus, leaving us adults to cycle back. (Be prepared to get saddle sore if you’re not used to cycling). The kids were playing down by the river in big rubber rings by the time we got back, having a great time.

Showered and ready for dinner we sat in the little communal area in front of the houses next to the river, it was so peaceful. We reflected on our first day and got to know each other more over dinner which was cooked by the Croatian family that lived there. Early to bed, ready for tomorrow.

Monday
9am start for breakfast. It was our first day of kayaking. Again we were fully fitted out with life jackets and helmets. Kayaks on the trailer and we were off for our river adventure.

Today we had to provide our own lunch (as we did on four of the days). We stopped en route at a local shop and stocked up with goodies to keep us going for the day. We arrived at our start point about 2 hours later. We had some free time whilst 1 of the minibuses was took to the final destination. It was once again a lovely spot and most of us jumped in and out of the river, swam across it, went to the island in the middle, more jumping in. It was so good to relax and do the things you never have time for at home.



It was time to board the kayaks, we paired up. I was with my youngest daughter, Lauren. Amy teamed up with a girl a few years older than herself. Once taught the basics we were on our way. It took a lot of getting used to, especially when you are sharing a kayak with someone. We hit the banks and several trees numerous times, but it was all part of the fun. We weren’t the only ones, think we were probably the worse to start with though!! Amy and her friend did struggle a little bit, with not being that strong in their own kayak and were towed a few times to keep up with the rest of the group. Again, there was no pressure to keep up at a certain pace. There was always 1 guide at the front whilst the other 1 was at the back.



Heading downstream we went over numerous waterfalls, it was great fun. The guides guiding us down them, arms up and paddles in the air as we went down. Some of the group capsized, but luckily we got away with not doing so.

What a brilliant day it was, great surroundings, great people and lots of splashing about. (You don’t have to be shy about the lack of toilet facilities, going behind the bushes was all part of the experience!!) Back on dry land, we headed back to the village. Quick shower, dinner and it was time to go to bed.

Tuesday

Another early start 8am (we were used to them by now, it made you make the most of every day). Today we were off walking in Plitvice National Park.



The scenery was fantastic, blue lakes, waterfalls, streams, full of fish which the kids loved.



We walked for about 3 miles, interspersed with a trip on a little train and a ride on a ferry across the lake.





Here we stopped for lunch, two places to choose from, most opted for the barbecue chicken, which went down well. It seemed really strange though being with crowds of people after it only being our own little group.





Early afternoon we headed back to the village where we had a few hours to spare. Some of us headed off upstream on the cycles to a lovely little spot with a waterfall, which we proceeded to dive and jump off.



The local Croatians were there swimming and diving in too. Of course you didn’t have to do this, you could stay in the village and just relax, soak up the sun if you wanted to. Back to the village, shower, dinner and early to bed.

Wednesday
Another 8am start and another day of kayaking. Everything loaded up and we were off, we were going to be heading upstream today. The only drawback here, was that you had to drag the kayaks up and over the waterfalls. The guides were brilliant at this.

Today I was with my eldest Amy, and Lauren fell lucky and shared a kayak with Martel, 1 of the guides. We had to wade through some quite deep water at times, and Lauren enjoyed the fact that she was carried by Martel, talk about being pampered, she loved it!



We stopped en route and climbed to the top of the 7 metre cliff, which everyone had been talking about jumping off. It had seemed like a good idea at home, but not in reality. However, there was a 4 metre cliff too, which Lauren and I and most of the others jumped off.

It seemed such a long way down as you plunged into the water, we were probably only under for a couple of seconds, if that. It was a big achievement for myself, as I had been scared of heights for years. It was no problem for the kids though, they have no fear and in just jumped in A couple of the group did jump off the 7 metre cliff, but my fear hadn’t completely gone for that.

Back in the kayaks we headed off downstream, down all the waterfalls we had previously dragged the kayaks up. At the end of the kayaking trip, Lauren had great pleasure in telling me how they hadn’t crashed the kayak once! We got the hang of it eventually. Back on dry land at our start point we headed back to the village.

Quick shower and change, we were off to a local restaurant tonight to have trout. It was lovely, fresh straight out the pond. The kids were a bit squeamish, and had to have the fish heads cut off before they would eat it. There was also a vegetarian dish available too. After a good meal and couple of drinks, we headed back to our beds for the night.

Thursday
8am start.(If you like your lie ins, then this isn’t for you!). Third day of kayaking. Today we were heading off as part of a larger group down a differerent stretch of river. Today I was with one of the girls, whilst my two were both with the guides. It was so much easier to paddle, having someone that little bit older to help to guide the kayak. Lots of splashing about and having fun again, we were starting to get quite good at this.



Stopping en route for lunch, at a lovely spot where you could swim and another cliff to jump off. Not quite so high this time. There was no stopping us today, not saying that the nerves weren’t there a little bit! Again everyone helped and encouraged each without any pressure, you didn’t feel you had to join in, some of the group sat and soaked up the sun. It was very warm today, probably the hottest day of the holiday. Back in the kayaks to our destination and back for dinner and bed.

Friday
8am start again. Today was a free day to do what we liked. We had the option of going white water rafting, which we all decided we wanted to do, rather than relax! However the kids had to be 16 to do it. We were instead, given the option of the kids rafting on a quieter stretch of the river.



They all said yes and 3 of the adults including myself went with them whilst the rest went white water rafting. We headed over the border into Bosnia for this activity. Another guide from the rafting company joined us, as we headed off into 2 rafts - girls versus boys. We won! We headed off downstream for probably a couple of hours, stopped part way for a paddle or swim. Once at our destination we waited for other part of our group to arrive and had lunch by the river. Time to head back into Croatia for our final evening together.

It was time to start packing, shower and dinner. We had a good time chatting about the weeks events, swapping phone numbers and email addresses.



Saturday
It was a very sad day, up for 5am to get to the airport for our morning flight. Quick breakfast and it was time to go. It was our guides last week with the Adventure Company too, so it was goodbyes all round.

Just like to say a big thank you to the Croatians in Korana village for making us feel so welcome and looking after us along with our two guides Stefan and Martel who were absolutely brilliant.

My kids and I will never forget this trip. It was our first holiday together just the 3 of us. Yes it was daunting at first, wondering who else was going to be on the trip, but we needn’t have worried. All the families got on really well. It was absolutely great, the best holiday ever.

So to all you single mums, dads and kids out there, go for it and enjoy!!"

Dawn and her daughters went on our Active Croatia Family Holiday trip.Click on the link to read more about the full itinerary and to find latest pricing and availability. There are four departures during July and August, which fits in perfectly with the school holidays!

Find out more about Croatia Holidays on our website

Find other single mum and dad adventurers on our Facebook page, click on the link on the right hand side of the page!

Thanks for reading,
The Adventure Company

The Adventure Company: Journey through Jordan!

In March, John Bridges travelled to Jordan with nine others on our Petra & Wadi Rum Trip. He kept an extensive travel diary of his trip, but had kindly submitted some of his excerpts below:



"DAY 1: MANCHESTER, LONDON, AMMAN

I left home at a sensible hour this morning - 08h30 - and headed up the M6 to Manchester Airport in the glorious spring sunshine. It's only a short trip to T3 from the car park and from there, a short trip down to London on one of the smaller planes in the BMI fleet. I guess there were no more than 20 of us on the flight although in such a small plane, that seemed a lot! It was full!

Plenty of time to check-in for the flight to Jordan and someone must have liked me, because I was pulled out of the queue and whisked to the Crown Class desk and checked in ahead of this group. I notice that I'm in Row 9 - I wonder whether I'll get the china crockery!

Some four hours later, we crossed the Israeli coast just north of Tel Aviv and eventually landed in Amman at 23h30. Or was it 00h30? The pilot bade us Good morning but the clocks said 23h30. I'm aware that Summer Time in Jordan starts on the last Thursday in March, so I was convinced it was actually 00h30. However, the clocks in the terminal building didn't agree.

Leaving the plane, I was immediately met by our rep; he would arrange our (free) visa. Two other couples joined us and we five passed through the Crew and Staff only gate and had our passports taken away for stamping. The others retrieved their suitcases (yes - suitcases) very quickly, whilst my rucksack was almost the last bag off the plane.



We went into the cold Amman early morning and boarded our coach to the hotel.


DAY 2: OF CASTLES AND KINGS

Despite being very tired, I found it difficult to sleep in a very cold room (the windows had been left open) with a pillow the size of a small mountain. Nevertheless, I must have slept because the alarm woke me at 07h30 and the pillow was on the floor.



Breakfast was a simple affair with bread, jam, oranges, dates and some funny green stuff. The introductory chat was interesting and before long, it was all over and we had to go and get ourselves ready for the day.

Back downstairs by 09h00, I found myself part of a group of nine comprising three couples (yes - one was genuinely called Sam 'n' Ella) and 3 singles. We were introduced to our guide for the week - Bassam, a Jordanian living in Hungary.

Bassam had an alternative to our itinerary: Today, we would do an extra castle rather than spend some time in Amman and tomorrow we would do one of the castles earmarked for later in the week. This would give one completely free day which would be filled with a visit to Jesus' Baptism site and a hike to some hot water springs. Without question, we all agreed.

Ajlun - Saladin's Fortress
It had been raining during breakfast but now, the sun was shining and we all clambered aboard our bus. As we headed north towards Ajlun, Bassam began to tell us the history of Jordan and the history of the Royal Family.



In the cool morning air, the rocky scrub land gave way to greener hills the farther north we ventured. Up and down hill we went, ever northwards through the biblical hills of Gilead with its olive groves until we arrived in the village of Ajlun. Being a Sunday, the first day of the working week, the village was busy with traders buying and selling beneath the view of the 600 year old minaret.



We headed through the town and up towards the peak of a hill overlooking the village. There, sitting, literally, squarely on the summit, was a ruined castle.


It turns out that this castle is a fine example of Islamic military architecture. It was build in the late 12th century by Saladin and comprised seven towers and a moat some 40' deep. Not bad as it sits astride a hill top. Due to its position overlooking the Jordan valley, the castle was an important link in the chain of castles built to defend against the Crusaders.




We got out of the coach and were put on board a little local bus and taken to the castle doors. There, we were greeted by an elderly gentleman selling fresh coffee. After a refreshingly hot drink in the surprisingly chilly air, we made out way up the ramp and into the castle.

Although I've seen castles all over the UK, this was a new departure. Saladin had been very cunning in designing his arrow slits. Although there was a slot in the wall, it was at waist height inside a large niche. This meant that two or three archers could man each slot rather than just one.




We continued up the main entrance and passed underneath the portcullis. There, our guide led us through a private door and we went to see a part of the castle not open to the public. Stone balls were evident as were beautiful carvings and, as we wound our way around the castle, we got higher and higher until we found ourselves in the sunshine, in the wind and on the roof. Boy was it cold. I'm in the Middle East for heaven's sake - it should not be cold! Mind you, the view across to the Jordan River and Israel was absolutely stunning - the castle was certainly built in an amazing place.

Jerash - A Hidden Gem
At Jerash, Time Team would have a field day and I reckon would not bother looking at anything Roman because we know it's there and probably come away having found the only Neolithic site in the area!

Jerash originally had a population of about 200,000 people and existed solely due to the good agricultural land in the area. Walking around the site, it's very easy to imagine a bustling city, with shops, fountains, people milling and entertainment.

Although there had been a Roman presence for some time, it wasn't until the 1st century AD that the city that's seen today was laid out.

In AD129, Hadrian (him of the Wall) visited and in celebration, a triumphal arch was built. As we entered the site, a Roman soldier stood atop the arch and blew his trumpet announcing the start of the games. We didn't go and see the games, preferring to see the sites instead.


We entered the absolutely spectacular Oval Plaza. This plaza is absolutely huge with a central fountain. 56 Ionic columns surround the plaza yet don't confine it. Making our way to the Temple of Zeus, we were drawn to the sound of bagpipes coming the South Theatre.



There, we found the Massed Bands of the Jordanian Bagpipers entertaining a few spectators, far fewer than the 5000 seating capacity. Standing in the middle of the amphitheatre, it is interesting to whisper to the audience and hear your whisper immediately in yours ears - a testament to the superb acoustics even now, some 2000 years after the theatre was built.

Returning to Amman, we walked into the city to explore the City Mall, grab a bite to eat and settle into the bar for a drink and contemplate another early start.


DAY 3: MORE CASTLES AND KINGS

07h00 came surprisingly early but after taking a shower and dressing, I packed my rucksack and headed down to breakfast.Returning to my room, I packed my washing kit and headed down to reception to checkout.

At 08h15, we climbed into the bus and headed off for the first stop of the day.


Mosaics and Moses
About an hour after leaving Amman, we arrived on a large building site known as Madaba. Making our way along unmade roads, our bus pulled into the car park and we descended into the sun.

Madaba is the most important Christian centre in Jordan and is a shining example of how Christian and Muslim can live together. Historically, this Moabite town was one of those divided amongst the twelve tribes of Israel. It changed hands several times through history until the middle of the 8th century when the town was devastated by an earthquake and abandoned.



In the late 19th century, the town was again becoming settled, at which point, the now famous mosaics were found. One such mosaic is a map of the Holy Land which, when news reached Europe of its discovery in 1897, brought about a keen archaeological presence, continuing today.




Walking through the town, we headed for the Greek Orthodox Church of St. George to view this famous map. Unearthed in 1884, it was actually put together in 560 and depicts 157 Biblical sites in the Middle East, some unknown at the time of rediscovery. The mosaic is some 40' long and 18' wide and built from over two million pieces. Oh, and spectacular!



Returning to the bus, we drove a short distance, up hill, until we came to a spectacular view. This was Mount Nebo. Both the Old Testament and the Koran tell of Moses being commanded to go to Mount Nebo in Moab and to view the land of Canaan, which will be given to the Israelites. However, Moses will not enter the Promised Land but die on Mount Nebo. There's a little museum on the top which, although contains some pottery, is mainly displaying maps from the different ages affecting Mount Nebo.



Climbing the mountain, the view down into the Jordan Valley across to the Dead Sea is breathtaking. With desert all around, a little strip of blue is just visible as is the great rip in the Earth's crust which is the Jordan Valley.


Taking the King's Highway to Karak
Settling back down in our seats, we had a few hours to kill on our journey south. There are several roads heading in our direction, but we had decided to follow a road that has been in continuous use for over 3000 years.



Known as the King's Highway or the Road of the Sultan, the road has been followed by the Israelites en route to the promised land, the traders making their way to and from Petra, pilgrims heading for Moses' memorial on Mount Nebo, Crusaders heading to their castles and Muslims on their pilgrimage to Mecca.



The journey south along the road took us through some unbelievably beautiful desert scenery. Stunning views and twisting roads took us down to the river before ascending back up the other side and on to the top. Barren rocks and sand occasionally interspersed with green oasis where the water flowed close enough to the surface to support plant life.


At 13h30, we eventually pulled into Karak, roughly a third of the way between Amman and Petra. Just before be descended into the city, our driver stopped so that we could take photos of the imposing Crusader castle. Occupying the entire ridge, the city has encroached into the castle but nevertheless, it still dominates the skyline.



First things first - we had lunch, taking salads and meat balls before heading off into the castle. This was very different to that of Ajlun, which was built in the Islamic style. Karak, however, was manned, not only by soldiers, but by their families too. Consequently, it is much bigger than Ajlun.

Karak is an ancient city laying on the caravan route between Egypt and Syria. It is also mentioned several times in the Bible.


Standing on the walls, it is easy to see why this location was chosen as the views over the surrounding countryside meant that no one could approach in secret.



That evening saw us in a deserted village hanging onto the side of the Jordan Valley. There, we had simple accommodation, simple food but good company.


DAY 4: DANA AND PETRA

I awoke before the alarm this morning. Not because I wasn't tired but because I thought I'd overslept! 45 minutes before breakfast and I was wandering around in the early morning sun taking photographs across the valley into Israel.



We packed our bags into the bus but set off on a three hour walk into the Dana Nature Reserve. We walked through the deserted village and headed off through some long neglected gardens and onto the mountain side. Although we saw evidence of porcupines and irises, the only wildlife to speak of came in the form of an eagle soaring overhead.



Somewhat disappointed by the lack of fauna, we arrived back at the bus and settled down for the ride to Petra.


In which nothing prepares you for the sight
As we were driving south, there was some discussion as to the events of the afternoon: several of us wished to take a 2-day pass into Petra and try and see something away from the main tourist route. After much group discussion, it was agreed that we'd all go to Petra this afternoon and climb to the highest point.

Having checked into the hotel, which couldn't be closer to Petra, we dined on barbecued chicken, humus and salad, etc. Then, grabbing the camera and leaving the others to their own devices, I set off down the track leading to the Siq - a half mile narrow gorge leading into the hidden valley.



Running down the side of the Siq is a channel carved into the rock which originally brought water into the city. There were surprises around every corner even when walking down the Siq whether it be the way the sun illuminated a particular rock or a little carving. However, nothing can prepare you for the view at the end - rounding the last corner and there, in front of you, framed by the dark walls of the Siq, the rose-red Treasury building. Undoubtedly one of the most awe-inspiring views in the world.


Today's visit though, is not about the main buildings of Petra, so, without paying too much attention, I headed down the main street until I came to a flight of steps heading almost vertically up the side of the mountain. It was slow going in the heat, but I pressed on up the step, along narrow cracks in the rock, all the while getting higher and higher.




Near the summit, I passed two obelisks before finally, after a little climb reached the High Place of Sacrifice. Whilst the archaeology on the summit may not be all that visually exciting, the views down to the Royal Tombs are breathtaking. It's worth the climb just for that! Having had a drink of water, I met up with the two Ninas, who had set off before lunch. They were at the summit admiring the view.




Climbing back down to the obelisks, we decided on a circular route back to the Siq and so headed off down a steep set of steps hidden in the rocks. Continuing down the side of the cliff, we descended steep stairs and, suddenly, rounding a corner, were met by a most amazing site -the Garden Tomb, beautifully lit by the afternoon sun. To be honest, it looks more like a temple than a tomb.

From here on, everywhere you looked, there were hidden buildings and amazing rock colourations. You could not take a dozen steps before someone would shout out “Oh wow, look at that!”.



It was even more magical because there was no-one else around - all the crowds had gone back to their coaches, etc., and there were but a few hundred visitors in the entire city.


Continuing down the valley, we entered the Roman Soldier's Tomb and, although there were no obvious internal carvings, it was still an impressive building. The Garden Triclinium across though, was another site all together.



The inside of this building was beautifully carved with pretend pillars and made marvellous use of the incredible colours in the rock.

After a shower, I met the Ninas in the Cave Bar attached to the hotel - built inside a Nabataean tomb - where we revived our thirsts before heading off for a meal in the hotel.


DAY 5: PETRA - THE ROSE RED CITY

I cannot find the words to describe this awe inspiring city; in fact just look at the photos from my day instead!:















DAY 6: FROM THE CROWDS OF PETRA TO THE DESOLATE BEAUTY OF THE DESERT.

Packing and leaving the rucksack at the door, I headed down to breakfast and made a packed lunch from the bread and cheese available!


Ali came to collect us at 09h00 and we began the slow climb up from Petra to the summit of the surrounding hills and the plateau beyond. Upon reaching the summit, Ali stopped the bus to give us one last glimpse of Petra before we headed off along the King's Highway down to Wadi Rum.




The journey across the desert began on the outskirts of Petra with red sandstone rocks and slowly moved to yellow sandstone before finishing up with brown sand. We passed several camels along the route and numerous goat herds; all the while the heat was building up.

Just before midday, we finally pulled off the main road and began the final 8 miles into Wadi Rum. There, we unloaded our bags and went to our tents - our accommodation for the night is a Bedouin camp.





After a cup of sweet tea, we sat down to lunch.

Some of the group opted to take a camel ride and so, some 30 minutes later, a camel train of 5 left the camp with two of us following on foot - the official camp photographer! The little train moved out into the desert and into the heat.



Five camels making it seem easy to walk across the sand - two followers making it seem difficult. After an hour, we returned into camp, dismounted and drank a large quantity of water!


Come 15h00, we boarded our two jeeps and headed off into the desert for a four hour trip. Leaving the Bedouin Camp, we crossed the little railway line and started across the sand.


First stop was a little group of rock carvings depicting ibex drawn by the Hammoudians. Then we came to stop at a wonderfully tall sand dune. Whilst the energetic ones climbed to the top and ran down at high speed the rest of us partook of more sweet tea.




Again, more bumpy travel until we came to a magnificent rock bridge and a camel train. This particular bridge was not too easy to climb, and so we continued another quarter mile to a second bridge. The views across the desert were spectacular and the group decided to climb.


Finally, we stopped once more - to collect fire wood - before eventually stopping in the lee of an enormous rock where our drivers built a fire and we climbed to a platform in order to watch the sun go down.

Although there was some heat haze, the view across the desert to the distant hills, some 20 miles away, was spectacular.

Sadly, there were no clouds in the vicinity and so the sunset was not as spectacular as it could have been. However, to see the setting sun over such a remote part of the earth was awe inspiring,





Finally, after the sun dropped, we too dropped and joined our drivers in taking tea before returning to camp, a meal, some music and a night in a tent.


DAY 7: ACROSS THE DESERT AND FAR AWAY

The night under canvas went very quickly - for me. Others complained at the noise coming from the dogs, the little train, the odd vehicle, snoring, but I heard nothing - apart from the occasional mosquito trying to get a quick bite.


Breakfast was a simple affair - strong coffee, pitta bread dipped in olive oil and herbs and hard boiled eggs. By 07h00, the bus was packed and nine sleepy adventures headed for 5 hours across the Jordanian Desert back towards the north. To pass the time, we managed a group crossword, although next time I recommend that the person with the pen has some numeracy and language skills!




Coming off the Desert Highway, we joined the Dead Sea Highway. It seemed rather odd standing on the top of a cliff next to a sign indicating that you are at Sea Level!

The Dead Sea is also known as the Sea of Lot as, when Lot and his family fled the destruction that would befall the cities of Sodom and Gomorrah, Lot's wife turned to view the hand of God and was immediately turned into a pillar of salt.

After some 5 hours of travelling, we arrived at Bethany-Beyond-The-Jordan.

The fascinating history of this area included the place where John the Baptist preached, Jesus was baptised, the first five disciples met and thus, the foundations of early Christianity were laid. Jesus is believed to have come here en route from Galilee and spent three days here before heading into the nearby wilderness for 40 days. John was later arrested and beheaded by Herod nearby.


In keeping with the biblical struggles, the local area is not controlled by the Ministry of Tourism, but by the armed forces as the Jordan River, which is only a few feet wide at this point, is the border between Jordan and the Occupied West Bank.




Entering the site, we first stop at a modern baptism pool where filter water from the Jordan is used in the modern ceremonies. Walking through in the midday sun, we arrive at John the Baptists pool, where he is reputed to have himself been baptised.



Continuing through the wild flowers, we arrive at the baptism site; a pool next to the River Jordan where the remains of three churches have been found.




After filling some bottles with river water, we headed back to our bus and the luxury that would be our final day in Jordan. We were heading for a day of nothing by the Dead Sea.


DAY 8: PLAYING DEAD BY THE DEAD SEA

Today is the penultimate day of the trip. Today is a day of rest. Today, we are playing Dead!

After a very relaxing night's sleep, breakfast came round at 08h00 - in a restaurant. What luxury!




The only thing I have done today is swim in the Dead Sea - enjoy the photos, I'm not writing any more - I'm on holiday!!!!"

John went on our Petra & Wadi Rum trip. Visit our website for more information. The Adventure Company also offer many trips to Jordan.

You can also find a full account of John's stay in Jordan and other travels he has completed on his blog. Check out his amazing photos!

Thanks for reading!
The Adventure Company

The Adventure Company: Walking in a Winter Wonderland!

This week, keen adventurer, Kerry Ovenden gives us a sneaky peek at her travel diary whilst on holiday in Finland with her boyfriend.



I went to Finland last February with my boyfriend. Our flights to Finland were a bit chaotic but we made it in the end. We arrived at night so we couldn’t really see anything when we arrived but our guides met us at the airport and took us to the hotel, they were very friendly. Hotel Inarin Kultahovi is situated on the edge of a river, which at this time of year is frozen over and is a very warm and welcoming place to stay. Apparently at this time the lake could hold the weight of a car but I won’t be testing that theory!



The next morning we were so keen to explore that we rushed outside without our thermal suits on! Inari is amazing, everything was covered in glistening snow and the air was really clear. It is a very small village with only a petrol station, two gift shops, a pub, museum and a hotel, so it is very quiet. The pub has a sign outside which tells you the temperature and throughout our stay, it remained about -7 degrees in the day.



On our first day, we went to collect our outdoor equipment and clothing to keep us warm when taking part in the many activities on offer (we had access to the snow shoes, toboggans, and skis etc throughout the week). Our first activity was cross country skiing, our guides gave us tuition at first but then we could have a go by ourselves. In the afternoon we had some free time.

Day two we went out to explore on snow shoes. We saw a lot of wild reindeer and our guides told us all about the wildlife in that area. In the afternoon, we went to visit a local reindeer farm, where we were able to feed the reindeer. We then went to have a drink in a kota which is a traditional Sami wooden house, with a fire in the middle. In the kota, we had a traditional drink called glogi (hot berry juice) in a carved wooden cup. The owners of this farm told us a lot about the area and their ways of life and also explained to us the importance of the reindeer for food, clothing and income, through crafts made from their antlers. At the end of our visit we had a reindeer driving test on a sleigh.




Day three: A visit to the Siida Museum to learn about the local area and the local people and an afternoon snowmobile excursion. We all had chance to drive the snowmobiles across the frozen lakes and on our journey, we saw reindeer and stopped to visit a wilderness church. The ride across the frozen lake was very bumpy due to the ridges in the ice but it was great fun. We also stopped at a kota on an island in the middle of the lake. Inside the fire kept us really warm and our guides had brought sausages, cheese and bread as well as biscuits and glogi, which we cooked on the open fire. We were then shown how local people drill into the ice to catch fish before we drove back over the frozen lakes at sunset.


Each night we sat out by the lake hoping to catch the northern lights, but tonight was the first night we had seen them. They are quite eerie but amazing to watch. Everyone at the hotel had gathered to watch them, it is an unbelievable experience.

Day four: This morning we went tobogganing near our hotel and in the afternoon, we started our trip to the wilderness lodge by snowmobile. On our journey we met a local man who had set nets under the ice to catch fish and he explained to us how he did this; we watched as he pulled his fish out of the water. After sunset we arrived at the wilderness hut on a small island, it was the only building for miles and had no electricity. Here we had a nice dinner to warm us up, with water straight from the lake to drink. That evening, our guide went to the frozen lake to collect water for our sauna; he lit the path ways by candles, and it looked amazing. The only downside to our night in the middle of nowhere was the arctic toilet! Basically a port-a-loo outside, with barely any light! But that was all part of the adventure. In the evening, we sat around the warm fire talking to our guide about the snowmobile competitions that they have on this lake; in the springtime, local people race to see how far they can drive on the ice by snowmobile before falling in!


Day five: We returned to our hotel in the morning. Then we drove to a local husky farm. The afternoon here was amazing; we all went out on our sleighs for an hour and a half with six huskies pulling us along through the woodland. I sat in the sleigh to begin with; wearing reindeer skin to keep me warm and my boyfriend drove the sleigh. The dogs were so excited, they were just dying to run off and they were so friendly too! We stopped half way around the course to take photos and change driver, but the huskies were yelping and barking at us because they wanted to keep going. Now it was my turn to drive the sleigh. This involved putting my whole body weight onto some iron teeth to push them into the ice in order to stop the sleigh, which isn’t easy! When leaning from side to side to turn corners, we had to hold on tight because lots of people from our group went flying off the sleighs, around the bends, but no one got hurt! This was definitely the highlight of our trip. When we got back to the farm, we sat in a kota and had warm berry juice whilst listening to the owner of the farm tell us all about the huskies.




Day six: We spent the morning souvenir shopping before heading to the airport.

Finland has to be one of the best holidays I have been on. The guides were brilliant; they taught us so much about the local area and really looked after us. The activities were amazing and well planned and the food we ate was all local produce, for example: the food on the hotel menu included fish from the lake behind us. This trip combined all of the things I look for in a holiday: adventure, culture, relaxation and wildlife. A once in a lifetime experience!

If, like Kerry, you are keen to explore Finland, The Adventure Company offers two tours to the country, Wilderness Activity Week Teenage Adventure and Winter Wonderland Family Holiday. We also offer other winter adventures that promises fun and excitement, whether you are travelling on your own or with the family. For more details, please visit our website.

Thanks for reading,
The Adventure Company