The Adventure Company: Into the depths of Africa!

This week, James Ingham shares his travel diary with us following the time he spent on our Delta to Victoria Falls trip to Botswana

"I was lucky enough to have just done part of the Delta to Victoria trip (trip code BS); spending two days in the Delta and two days in Moremi National Park and there are two over riding & life changing aspects I took out from the experience, which I’d like to share.

One, coming from the UK, being in environment dominated by the animal kingdom truly turned my world upside down. We live in such a populated island, the only wildlife we see on a regular basis are birds – well the last few days certainly turned that on it’s head…everything had a place and purpose, the whole environment was the result of thousands of years evolution; perfectly symbiotic. The Okavango Delta is large enough for natural migration patterns which not many other places can provide nowadays. Secondly, no mobile reception, TV, laptops, news, or worries of work – this is one of the most tranquil and serene holidays I have ever had it really showed me how little we need to live happily.

So, here are the highlights

Day One
We flew into Maun, described by one of the travellers as the frontier town for the Delta, and it certainly had that feel to it; it’s where most people start We explored the High Street and then enjoyed a 45minute evening flight over the Delta, spotting herds of elephants and zebras, but crucially, we got a sense of the scale of the wilderness; it’s a staggering 16000sqkm!





Days Two & Three
After a short drive in the Land Cruiser we entered the Delta’s designated wildlife area, once we passed the massive buffalo fence which splits the wilderness from the grazing land we were instantly hit by wildlife – a great introduction. Within two minutes there were baboons crossing the road, followed 30 seconds later by hippos relaxing in a waterhole. The 45 minute off-road drive continued to the polling station to meet our guides was and in that time we saw ostriches, giraffes, Tsebes and many birds.



Then it was into the Mokorros for a unique bush experience; being punted through the reeds, enjoying the sun and witty rapport. We arrived at our campsite, which some pollers had set up before out arrival. The wild campsites deserve a mention, the pollers put up and took done most parts, but when we were in Moremi we helped the guides, putting up tents and washing up, leaving them to manage the fire and the cooking, but help was always appreciated and every was willing to chip in. The outdoor showers and toilets were are really unique experience – particularly the shower in Moremi - I found myself lathering up looking out over a herd of elephants and a pod of hippos, definitely one of my best showers…



Here in the Delta, the mokorro pollers took us on walking safaris in the early morning and evening, which were very memorable for me – seeing these guides use their tracking knowledge to uncover herds of elephants, zebras, impala and giraffes – the whole experience was so natural it was breathtaking – nothing but bush land between us and the animals just 50 metres away and I, or they, never felt threatened. The most memorable experience here was taking a mokorro trip to see a hippo pool in the early evening – it was fascinating watching their interaction between themselves and us, all against a beautiful tropical sunset.



Days Four & Five
From here we got back in the Land Cruiser and drove up to Moremi with our local Botswanan guide, Pass. Moremi is known for being rich in wildlife – typifying Botswana’s policy of a low volume of visitors but at a higher price and this certainly added to the experience.





It was as game drive should be seen, on most the morning or evening drives we would see just 2- 4 other vehicles in 2-3 hours; a far cry from my initial perception of one leopard lying in the sun and eight trucks around it. For this Botswana is special, you really feel immersed in the wildness. No more so than at night, when you are around the campfire chatting and you hear hippos grunting the background, hyenas calling out and elephants trumpeting. In the reserve you’re not allowed to get out of the truck so our two guides are busy pointing out the game, there were so many amazing birds and animals, but the real highlight was watching a stampede of elephants come across the bush towards our truck. I’ll never forget this, lucky because my images of it were not so great...

This is an abridged summary of my few days in Botswana. I had a great time and I’m happy to talk to anyone about it. It far surpassed my initial expectations and I have come back with better feel for what life is all about. I learnt so much about the animal kingdom, got a real sense of purpose and I can not thank my guides enough- just great, super, amazing, awesome… "

James went on our Delta to Victoria Falls trip, but we also offer five other tours to Botswana. Visit our website to find out more.

Thanks for reading,
The Adventure Company

The Adventure Company: Reaching Everest Base Camp!

On our Facebook recently, we've have lots of enquiries from fans and past customers who are curious as to what its like to reach Everest Base Camp and what they should expect.

We've never been one to leave our customers in the dark, and with the help of Jo Murphy, her extensive travel diary is our blog of the week.

Here's hoping this clears up any queries with you all, but as always ask us by leaving a comment or sending an email if you wish to know anything more!

"Everest Base camp Trek 27th March 2009

Prep
After 6 months of waiting, my dream was about to begin… but first I had to squeeze 19 days worth of clothes into one teeny weeny rucksack…. Ok maybe not teeny weeny, but 15kg is not a lot for a girl!, I find it quite an achievement that I mamnaged to pack just one pair of shoes, - and even those were slippers…. Amazing!





Day 1
After a long day of travelling, scoffing haribo, and getting to know my fellow adventurures, we finally arrive in Kathmandu. Straight away we are hit by the hustle and bustle, a complete culture shock to anybody who has never experienced a completely different way of life. The sheer amount of people in the streets, the smells, the colours. One thing I can clearly remember from out first introduction to Kathmandu, is the local police shutting off a whole street because a cow decided it fancied a nap in the road!

After a “scenic” journey through Kathmandu, we arrived at out hotel, the Tibet hotel, really nice place. We had a bit of an exploration, ventured down to Thamel, saw all the rickshaws, hundreds of shops selling everything you need for the trek, - wished I had listened to previous travellers now! Would have saved a lot of money!

Early evening went back to the hotel, met all the rest of out group, had a meeting, short introduction into what we would be doing, then off for tea! – or as Paul would call it “dinner” , differences between the north/south divide amongst the English crowd quickly became apparent!

After a lovely dinner, myself, Nicky, Hayley and Laura, decided to use our short time in Kathmandu wisely, and explore the place, unfortunately, we stumbled into a Nepalese “dance” bar, were we were treated to an hour of erm… “exotic” and slightly weird dance show! But we wouldn’t have had it any other way, was a fantastic night trying out the famous Everest beer, and getting to know each other!

Day 2: Exploring Kathmandu
So Raj, our guide, had informed us to be up and ready to go at 9am, in order to get around all the places we needed to see. Myself and Hayley, didn’t get off to the best start, as we only woke up at 9.20am, to banging on the door!! Oops!
Nevertheless, we got on our way to our first stop, Swayambunath Stupa, aka – monkey temple. We spent about an hour looking around, visiting prayer wheels, watching the locals praying, and generally just taking in the sights, and you guessed it, watching the Columbus monkeys, roaming freely around the temple.



Second stop was Durbur Square, which immediately you feel like you have walked into China, the buildings and statues stand apart from the surrounding areas. All you can see are brightly dressed local holy men, dressed in orange robes, tip – don’t take their photo without asking, as they tend to chase you for money!



Also look out for the rather “interesting” wood sculptures carved around the rafters of the buildings – lets just say the Nepalese are a bit on the kinky side!



After stopping for lunch, we went to our third and final destination, which to be honest was a bit of a shocker. We went to Pashupatinath, an ancient temple complex resting on the edge of the Baghmati river. The stretch of river is devoted to hindu cremations, and when we arrived, there were several taking place.

We were literlly sitting 50 feet on the other side of the river watching these rituals taking place. I found it a very surreal expericne, several bodies were buring, and one was led on the floor wrapped in orange cloth waiting for the ceremony. I felt slightly strange for witnessing something that I felt should be a private ceremony. Yet this was a hindu ceremony, and it was so interesting to witness it first hand.



Day 3: “Scenic flight to Lukla”
Scenic is word word to describe it alright!, I can also think of several others – nerve racking, gut wrentching, vom inducing, to name but a few, though not to put you off, this is one experience you will take with you for life, flying in an 18 seater toy plane 14,000 feet up over the himilayas is just amazing. Apparently our flight was considered “very successful” why was that Raj? – because we didn’t crash?





After 40 minutes, and a slight scary moment, we finally landed at Lukla airport, I use airport in the loosest term!.



We started our trek…3 hours trekking. Lukla (2840m) - Phakding (2610m)

Immediately, you feel at one with nature, you’ve been dumped in the middle of the mountains, and its just the most amazing feeling of freedom, now you really feel like your trekking to Everest Base Camp.



We arrived at Phakding shortly before 3pm, and settled into our first night experiencing teahouses. It was surprisingly nice. Much better than I was expecting, basically just a shed, - complete with flushing loo! – felt like I'd won the lottery!



First night sampling the local food which we were to be accustomed with for the next 12 nights, first of many many garlic soups for Paul, Fried egg and chips for Laura, Pizza for james, Mo Mo’s for Tanja, and most other people, Veggie fried noodles, veggie friend rice, or veggie noodle soup!

Day 4: 7 hours trekking Phakding (2610m) - Namche Bazar (3430m)

So after a relatively comfy night in Phakding, and my first sampling of lemon and honey tea, (yum yum!!) we set off for the famous namche Bazaar. Over the course of several hours, we were to steadily climb 800 metres. The majority of the trek today was at a slight gradient, or what Raj would refer to as “nepali flat”, that term, we would later discover, was just Raj’s way of getting our lazy backsides up a hill!

After crossing the last of 5 highly suspended bridges over the famous “Milk River”, we started out steep ascent up to Namche. This part of the trek was strenuous. But so scenic, we were walking through beautiful forests and amongst snowcapped mountains, which more than made up for the hard work.



Finally arriving at Namche Bazaar, the clouds had come down and everybody was feeling a little tired. Some had a small kip before tea, others went exploring.



That night a few of our team, Myself. Laura, Louise, Dale, Anne, and Prakash stayed up playing cards games, we had such a laugh, brought it home how little you actually need to keep you happy, just a few cards, and a hot chocolate. Was a great night.


Day 5: Acclimatising Namche (3430m) - Syangboche (3720m) – Namche (3430m)

So after a surprisnlgly good nights sleep, managed to sneak into the hot shower at 6am!, then me and gary went for a walk around namche, One thing that’s great about waking up so early, are the views, after arriving the previous day in cloud, we had no idea of the scene that met us when we woke up. Namche being nestled in a horseshoe, seems protected 360 degrees by the most stunning scenery. Waking up this early you get to see the sunrise which just gives the best start to the day!

Today was our first acclimatiasation day and we were to climb 350 metres up namche Hill, we got to visit the namche museum, and also had our first view of everest. Was an amazing feeling to be stood so far away looking at where we were aiming. This would be the first and last time we would see everest until kala patthar. The mountain looked so beautiful and peaceful, a total contrast to the book several of the team were reading simultaneously – Jon Krakauer’s "Into Thin Air!”. It made me realize just how dangerous something so beautiful can actually be.



From here we continued up to our acclimatization point, after a climb of roughly 90 minutes, we stayed at the top for an hour or so, relaxing, taking in the views and slowly getting panda eyes!






Day 6: 6 hours trekking. Namche Bazar (3430m) - Tengboche (3860m)

Today the trek started off with a small climb, during the course of the day we were to drop 600 metres into the forest, then climb up 1030 metres to Tengboche, again following the milk river. After lunch we had a 3 hour steep climb, this was tough, especially now as the lack of oxygen had started to become apparent. But we were given plenty of rest stops, however those were quickly followed with lots of “jam jams”





For the best part of the day the weather was amazing, though the higher we went and the later in the day, the temparture semmed to drop dramatically. We eventually arrived at tengboche and immediately saw Tengboche monastry. A beautiful colourful building standing onto of the mountain. We had a venure round before tea, which was well deserved after the strenuous climb today, - although sneakily, Gary, Paul, James and David had already filled their tummies at the tengboche bakery!, - without telling any of the girlies! Very naughty!



Day 7: 5 hours trekking. Tengboche (3860m) - Dingboche (4410m)

The day started with an easy descent of 75 metres, - but as we had come to learn, for every down, theres an up, just around the corner, and usually 10 times as big! Today I had started to suffer with the headaches, I felt particualry sick and dizzy, Raj our guide was brilliant, he monitered several of us, as we came down with slight signs of altitude sickness. He gave us advice and kept checking on us. I found it particvualry frustrating, as I had trained for a few months beforehand, and I felt my body was failing me. Today was a struggle.

After lunch, I found the day got quite difficult, I felt really bad, and was unfortunately reduced to tears because of the headaches. After a bit of comfort talk from my fantastic team, I got the strength to carry on. Prakash, another of our guides kept me chatting for the last leg of the trek, which worked wonders in keeping my mind off the pain.

We eventually arrived at Dingboche, nestled in a valley, the accommodation was really comfortable. After a bit of a rest, id begun to feel better and Laura and I went for a wonder.



Day 8: Acclimatizing Dingboche (4410m) - Nangkar Tshang (4840m) - Dingboche (4410m)
So today we had another acclimatization day, It was pretty tough, about 2 hours of steep climbing. The lack of oxygen was certainly taking hold now, and I was struggling to catch my breath. I think most people in the group found it difficult, but nevertheless we made it. We stopped at the top for about 45 minutes and the most amzing time, we were sitting ontop of the clouds,, every so often they would clear briefly for about 20 seconds to reveal the most amazing view, then dissapear again.



Day 9: 5 hours trekking. Route: Dingboche (4410m) - Lobuche (4910m)
Today we set off from Dingboche and walked a “nepali” flat for about 2 hours, the scenery was amazing, the weather blazing hot, everybody seemed in high spirits.





Raj had told us the night before that if the altitude was going to affect us, it would happen after lunch, After a 90 minute trek up a very very steep mountain. When we reached the top, we came to a memorial site for all the mountaineers who have lost their lives on everest. It was such a peaceful place. We stayed here, reading the placques and taking in the views for around half an hour. Raj was right, this was the point when I got the most horrendous headache ive ever experienced. This is the day I finally had to take my diamox.



From here we had a 2 hour flat trek to Lobouche. A few of us were suffering by now with headaches and dizziness, but we still made it. That night, most of us were too tired to stay up and most were in bed by 8pm. We had a big day in the morning, - base camp!.



Day 10 : 8.5 hours trekking. Route: Lobuche (4910) - Base Camp (5365m) - Gorak Shep (5140m)
Today I woke up in a strange mood, very nervous, scared, and very emotional. I couldn’t touch breakfast, similar to a good few others in the group, - except of course Paul and Dave!

We set off at 5am, and had a 3 hour trek to Gorak Shep. The first part of the day was tough, Nicola was really suffering due to the altitude, and several of the group had pulled right back and were taking it slow today. The temperature was freezing. Although spirits were down, after an hour or so when we saw the sun rise over the mountains, we started to come round.



8 am and we had finally reached gorak Shep, Most people byt this point were totally exhausted, but with base camp less than 3 hours away, we all seemed to find a little bit of spare energy to spur on. We forced down a bit of breakfast and carried on.



The trek to base camp was really nice and peaceful, difficult with lots of ups and downs. The group seemed to go quiet, and we all got our heads down, taking in the beautiful scenery and looking out towards the khumba ice fell. The sun was shining and base camp was approaching.



It was approcimately 1.45pm when we reached base camp.





Tired, exhausted, emotional, but successful, a few of us had a cry, we had finally reached our destination, several of us endured a lot of pain and exhaustion, but we got here. I didn’t quite know what to expect, before I came to Nepal, people had told me basecamp was a “dump” and full of litter. But it wasn’t at all. We stayed here for around an hour, taking photos, just spending time alone, taking in the views, watching Dale with his hedgehogs he had carried all the way up, celebrating with a tube of Pringles at 17,600 feet, ( pic 31) and toasting with champagne… ok forget the champagne…more like mineral water, but hey!





We finally left basecamp and headed back to Gorak shep, good timing, as half an hour in, the clouds came down and the snow started falling….

Day 11: 9.5 hours trekking. Gorak Shep (5140m) - Kala Pathar (5550) - Orsho (4130m) (or as I like to call it – hell!)

So today, we had two options, we could attempt kala patthar at 18,192 feet, or we could start our descent down to Orsho. Over night however, the skies above everest had decided to dump a few feet of snow on our doorstep. We were told from the beginning that not all of us would have the strength to attampet kala patthar, as it was a tough 2 hour climb at freezing temperatures, made even worse by the snow. Nevertheless 11 out of our 14 set off at 5am to attempt the mountain. I managed to climb for an hour and a half before finally giving up, I got to see the sunrise over everest, manage one quick photograph looking distionctively in pain, be hand fed a snickers bar by one of our guides. Then, I quickly get off the mountain. In a flood of tears due to pain and dissapointment, I sat having my fingers and toes thawed out in Gorak Shep by 4 sherpas. Ive never felt pain like that in my life!.



It was another hour or so until we discovered who had made Kala Pathar. Paul, David, Gary, James, Dale, Anne, Louise. They came back with a couple of war wounds. Dale had received a massive gash on his leg after falling on a rock, Gary had dislocated his shoulder, and been made to walk half an hour before having it popped back in! but all in all the heroes all made it back in one piece, - their photos looked amazing.



We eventually all caught up with each other in a massive snow storm, followed by blazing sunshine, most of us owe our attractive panda eyes to this day!

Day 12: 6 hours trekking. Orsho (4130m) - Namche Bazar (3430m)
Back down to namche, and all the girls could think about was a hot shower, and the boys a cold beer! Typical! We celebrated later on in the night by visiting the local nightclub with our guides. Was a brilliant night!



Day 13: 3.25 hours trekking. Namche Bazar (3430m) - Phakding (2610m)
In the words of James, this was the day that the “pathetic testosterone driven kids” – aka – boys!!! decided to literally run 700 metres downhill to phakding and try to beat Prakash.

The girls were in stitches watching the boys try and race each other, we held back taking in the scenery for what will probably be the last time for many of us.

When we arrived at Phakding we were greeted by the next group heading up to base camp, it brought back memories from the first night of our trek, we were swapping stories and giving advice.

Meanwhile Nicola and myself were scaring the sherpas by unplaiting my braids id worn for ease for the last 3 weeks. The look on their faces was hilarious as they were watching all my hair end up in a pile on the table. It was soooo nice to finally be able to scratch my head! And feel like a girl! Haha





Day 14: 3 hours trekking. Phakding (2610m) - Lukla (2840m)

The last day of our trek, I think most of our group, except the boys, decided to take this one slowly, it was the last time we would see the mountains so close, the weather was amazing, the views simply stunning and the walk so relaxing. I think all of us at some point got a little emotional that our trek was finally coming to an end.

That night we stayed in Lukla, - what a memorable night!, - we had a meal altogether with our guides and sherpas, then partied sherpa style. Then wondered down to the local bar for cocktail happy hour! I think a few of our group forgot what awaited us the following morning…..yeti airlines! and probably drank a wee too much than they should have…. Brilliant!



Day 15: Lukla (2840m) – Kathmandu

Today was our final day in mountains, it was emotional, we had to say goodbye to our guides, Iswur, Chhewang, Nara and prakash, and our sherpas. Then hopped on yeti airline for our “scenic flight to kathmandu” – I think you already know what comes next so I wont go into detail!

Few hours later and we are back in the smog, a whole day ahead of us to explore the hustle and bustle of Kathamdu. That night Raj took us out to a well known restaurant in Thamel, - Rum Doodles, we had a brilliant meal, and at the end we got given a foot to sign…. this is when team jam jam was born…. Out foot now hangs proudly from the ceiling displaying “team jam jam – the toast of everest base camp” on one side, and something else which I wont tell you on the other! So if you see it in the future take a pic for us so we know its still there!



Day 16 : Kathmandu

Another free day to shop and explore… and sunbath and swim… yep, a few of our group had found a little haven across from our hotel, 7 stories up we were pampering ourselves in the sauna and stemroom of the Radison hotel. Just what the doctor ordered!

Day 17: Homeward Bound
Today was another emotional day, most of the group were traveling back to heathrow together, but we had to say goodbye to Tanya and Gary beforehand which was sad.



My experience…..
Everest Base Camp was something id wanted to do for a long time, but I kept putting it off, until one day about a year ago I just went for it. For 4 months beforehand I'd trained and researched about my trip. The time flew by and before I knew it I was sat on a plane with my fellow adventurers. For me this trip was the start of a new chapter in my life. It truly was a voyage of self discovery, I went through hard times and painful times, days when I was so happy I didn’t want them to end and days when I felt so sick I didn’t want to carry on, above all absoutley fantastic times.

I was so lucky to be with the most amazing group who truly made it for me, as a solo traveller I was worried about the people I would be with, in case I didn’t get on with them, but thankfully, through the wonders of The Adventure Company Facebook several of us had had contact for a good few months, - something which I strongly advise any grioup doing this trek. We already had a bond before we even arrived at Heathrow.

14 people from totally different backgrounds, different ages and different countires, all brought together by one mountain, we all had something in common, this was something that we all felt passionate for. I wil have memories from this trek for the rest of my life, and hopefully friends too. This is just the start of my adventures, and already, myself and Nicky are booked onto another trip with the Adventure Company. If our next trip is only half as good as Everest base camp, then it will be fantastic.

So thankyou to the adventure company, to Raj our guide, all our other guides and sherpas, and our team jam jam, Marjorie Davey, Anne and Dale Foden, Tanja Heijnemans, Paul Hopkins, Laura James, Gary Jordan, Louise Marsden, Clare Morton, Nicola Moss, James Richardson, Hayley Rose and David Vu, for truly the best experience of my life."

We're sure you agree- an absolutely fantastic account of a great trip. Find out more about Everest Base Camp by visiting The Adventure Company website.

Thanks kindly to Jo for taking the time and effort spent in sending us her experience, and thank YOU for reading!

The Adventure Company

The Adventure Company: Journey through Jordan!

In March, John Bridges travelled to Jordan with nine others on our Petra & Wadi Rum Trip. He kept an extensive travel diary of his trip, but had kindly submitted some of his excerpts below:



"DAY 1: MANCHESTER, LONDON, AMMAN

I left home at a sensible hour this morning - 08h30 - and headed up the M6 to Manchester Airport in the glorious spring sunshine. It's only a short trip to T3 from the car park and from there, a short trip down to London on one of the smaller planes in the BMI fleet. I guess there were no more than 20 of us on the flight although in such a small plane, that seemed a lot! It was full!

Plenty of time to check-in for the flight to Jordan and someone must have liked me, because I was pulled out of the queue and whisked to the Crown Class desk and checked in ahead of this group. I notice that I'm in Row 9 - I wonder whether I'll get the china crockery!

Some four hours later, we crossed the Israeli coast just north of Tel Aviv and eventually landed in Amman at 23h30. Or was it 00h30? The pilot bade us Good morning but the clocks said 23h30. I'm aware that Summer Time in Jordan starts on the last Thursday in March, so I was convinced it was actually 00h30. However, the clocks in the terminal building didn't agree.

Leaving the plane, I was immediately met by our rep; he would arrange our (free) visa. Two other couples joined us and we five passed through the Crew and Staff only gate and had our passports taken away for stamping. The others retrieved their suitcases (yes - suitcases) very quickly, whilst my rucksack was almost the last bag off the plane.



We went into the cold Amman early morning and boarded our coach to the hotel.


DAY 2: OF CASTLES AND KINGS

Despite being very tired, I found it difficult to sleep in a very cold room (the windows had been left open) with a pillow the size of a small mountain. Nevertheless, I must have slept because the alarm woke me at 07h30 and the pillow was on the floor.



Breakfast was a simple affair with bread, jam, oranges, dates and some funny green stuff. The introductory chat was interesting and before long, it was all over and we had to go and get ourselves ready for the day.

Back downstairs by 09h00, I found myself part of a group of nine comprising three couples (yes - one was genuinely called Sam 'n' Ella) and 3 singles. We were introduced to our guide for the week - Bassam, a Jordanian living in Hungary.

Bassam had an alternative to our itinerary: Today, we would do an extra castle rather than spend some time in Amman and tomorrow we would do one of the castles earmarked for later in the week. This would give one completely free day which would be filled with a visit to Jesus' Baptism site and a hike to some hot water springs. Without question, we all agreed.

Ajlun - Saladin's Fortress
It had been raining during breakfast but now, the sun was shining and we all clambered aboard our bus. As we headed north towards Ajlun, Bassam began to tell us the history of Jordan and the history of the Royal Family.



In the cool morning air, the rocky scrub land gave way to greener hills the farther north we ventured. Up and down hill we went, ever northwards through the biblical hills of Gilead with its olive groves until we arrived in the village of Ajlun. Being a Sunday, the first day of the working week, the village was busy with traders buying and selling beneath the view of the 600 year old minaret.



We headed through the town and up towards the peak of a hill overlooking the village. There, sitting, literally, squarely on the summit, was a ruined castle.


It turns out that this castle is a fine example of Islamic military architecture. It was build in the late 12th century by Saladin and comprised seven towers and a moat some 40' deep. Not bad as it sits astride a hill top. Due to its position overlooking the Jordan valley, the castle was an important link in the chain of castles built to defend against the Crusaders.




We got out of the coach and were put on board a little local bus and taken to the castle doors. There, we were greeted by an elderly gentleman selling fresh coffee. After a refreshingly hot drink in the surprisingly chilly air, we made out way up the ramp and into the castle.

Although I've seen castles all over the UK, this was a new departure. Saladin had been very cunning in designing his arrow slits. Although there was a slot in the wall, it was at waist height inside a large niche. This meant that two or three archers could man each slot rather than just one.




We continued up the main entrance and passed underneath the portcullis. There, our guide led us through a private door and we went to see a part of the castle not open to the public. Stone balls were evident as were beautiful carvings and, as we wound our way around the castle, we got higher and higher until we found ourselves in the sunshine, in the wind and on the roof. Boy was it cold. I'm in the Middle East for heaven's sake - it should not be cold! Mind you, the view across to the Jordan River and Israel was absolutely stunning - the castle was certainly built in an amazing place.

Jerash - A Hidden Gem
At Jerash, Time Team would have a field day and I reckon would not bother looking at anything Roman because we know it's there and probably come away having found the only Neolithic site in the area!

Jerash originally had a population of about 200,000 people and existed solely due to the good agricultural land in the area. Walking around the site, it's very easy to imagine a bustling city, with shops, fountains, people milling and entertainment.

Although there had been a Roman presence for some time, it wasn't until the 1st century AD that the city that's seen today was laid out.

In AD129, Hadrian (him of the Wall) visited and in celebration, a triumphal arch was built. As we entered the site, a Roman soldier stood atop the arch and blew his trumpet announcing the start of the games. We didn't go and see the games, preferring to see the sites instead.


We entered the absolutely spectacular Oval Plaza. This plaza is absolutely huge with a central fountain. 56 Ionic columns surround the plaza yet don't confine it. Making our way to the Temple of Zeus, we were drawn to the sound of bagpipes coming the South Theatre.



There, we found the Massed Bands of the Jordanian Bagpipers entertaining a few spectators, far fewer than the 5000 seating capacity. Standing in the middle of the amphitheatre, it is interesting to whisper to the audience and hear your whisper immediately in yours ears - a testament to the superb acoustics even now, some 2000 years after the theatre was built.

Returning to Amman, we walked into the city to explore the City Mall, grab a bite to eat and settle into the bar for a drink and contemplate another early start.


DAY 3: MORE CASTLES AND KINGS

07h00 came surprisingly early but after taking a shower and dressing, I packed my rucksack and headed down to breakfast.Returning to my room, I packed my washing kit and headed down to reception to checkout.

At 08h15, we climbed into the bus and headed off for the first stop of the day.


Mosaics and Moses
About an hour after leaving Amman, we arrived on a large building site known as Madaba. Making our way along unmade roads, our bus pulled into the car park and we descended into the sun.

Madaba is the most important Christian centre in Jordan and is a shining example of how Christian and Muslim can live together. Historically, this Moabite town was one of those divided amongst the twelve tribes of Israel. It changed hands several times through history until the middle of the 8th century when the town was devastated by an earthquake and abandoned.



In the late 19th century, the town was again becoming settled, at which point, the now famous mosaics were found. One such mosaic is a map of the Holy Land which, when news reached Europe of its discovery in 1897, brought about a keen archaeological presence, continuing today.




Walking through the town, we headed for the Greek Orthodox Church of St. George to view this famous map. Unearthed in 1884, it was actually put together in 560 and depicts 157 Biblical sites in the Middle East, some unknown at the time of rediscovery. The mosaic is some 40' long and 18' wide and built from over two million pieces. Oh, and spectacular!



Returning to the bus, we drove a short distance, up hill, until we came to a spectacular view. This was Mount Nebo. Both the Old Testament and the Koran tell of Moses being commanded to go to Mount Nebo in Moab and to view the land of Canaan, which will be given to the Israelites. However, Moses will not enter the Promised Land but die on Mount Nebo. There's a little museum on the top which, although contains some pottery, is mainly displaying maps from the different ages affecting Mount Nebo.



Climbing the mountain, the view down into the Jordan Valley across to the Dead Sea is breathtaking. With desert all around, a little strip of blue is just visible as is the great rip in the Earth's crust which is the Jordan Valley.


Taking the King's Highway to Karak
Settling back down in our seats, we had a few hours to kill on our journey south. There are several roads heading in our direction, but we had decided to follow a road that has been in continuous use for over 3000 years.



Known as the King's Highway or the Road of the Sultan, the road has been followed by the Israelites en route to the promised land, the traders making their way to and from Petra, pilgrims heading for Moses' memorial on Mount Nebo, Crusaders heading to their castles and Muslims on their pilgrimage to Mecca.



The journey south along the road took us through some unbelievably beautiful desert scenery. Stunning views and twisting roads took us down to the river before ascending back up the other side and on to the top. Barren rocks and sand occasionally interspersed with green oasis where the water flowed close enough to the surface to support plant life.


At 13h30, we eventually pulled into Karak, roughly a third of the way between Amman and Petra. Just before be descended into the city, our driver stopped so that we could take photos of the imposing Crusader castle. Occupying the entire ridge, the city has encroached into the castle but nevertheless, it still dominates the skyline.



First things first - we had lunch, taking salads and meat balls before heading off into the castle. This was very different to that of Ajlun, which was built in the Islamic style. Karak, however, was manned, not only by soldiers, but by their families too. Consequently, it is much bigger than Ajlun.

Karak is an ancient city laying on the caravan route between Egypt and Syria. It is also mentioned several times in the Bible.


Standing on the walls, it is easy to see why this location was chosen as the views over the surrounding countryside meant that no one could approach in secret.



That evening saw us in a deserted village hanging onto the side of the Jordan Valley. There, we had simple accommodation, simple food but good company.


DAY 4: DANA AND PETRA

I awoke before the alarm this morning. Not because I wasn't tired but because I thought I'd overslept! 45 minutes before breakfast and I was wandering around in the early morning sun taking photographs across the valley into Israel.



We packed our bags into the bus but set off on a three hour walk into the Dana Nature Reserve. We walked through the deserted village and headed off through some long neglected gardens and onto the mountain side. Although we saw evidence of porcupines and irises, the only wildlife to speak of came in the form of an eagle soaring overhead.



Somewhat disappointed by the lack of fauna, we arrived back at the bus and settled down for the ride to Petra.


In which nothing prepares you for the sight
As we were driving south, there was some discussion as to the events of the afternoon: several of us wished to take a 2-day pass into Petra and try and see something away from the main tourist route. After much group discussion, it was agreed that we'd all go to Petra this afternoon and climb to the highest point.

Having checked into the hotel, which couldn't be closer to Petra, we dined on barbecued chicken, humus and salad, etc. Then, grabbing the camera and leaving the others to their own devices, I set off down the track leading to the Siq - a half mile narrow gorge leading into the hidden valley.



Running down the side of the Siq is a channel carved into the rock which originally brought water into the city. There were surprises around every corner even when walking down the Siq whether it be the way the sun illuminated a particular rock or a little carving. However, nothing can prepare you for the view at the end - rounding the last corner and there, in front of you, framed by the dark walls of the Siq, the rose-red Treasury building. Undoubtedly one of the most awe-inspiring views in the world.


Today's visit though, is not about the main buildings of Petra, so, without paying too much attention, I headed down the main street until I came to a flight of steps heading almost vertically up the side of the mountain. It was slow going in the heat, but I pressed on up the step, along narrow cracks in the rock, all the while getting higher and higher.




Near the summit, I passed two obelisks before finally, after a little climb reached the High Place of Sacrifice. Whilst the archaeology on the summit may not be all that visually exciting, the views down to the Royal Tombs are breathtaking. It's worth the climb just for that! Having had a drink of water, I met up with the two Ninas, who had set off before lunch. They were at the summit admiring the view.




Climbing back down to the obelisks, we decided on a circular route back to the Siq and so headed off down a steep set of steps hidden in the rocks. Continuing down the side of the cliff, we descended steep stairs and, suddenly, rounding a corner, were met by a most amazing site -the Garden Tomb, beautifully lit by the afternoon sun. To be honest, it looks more like a temple than a tomb.

From here on, everywhere you looked, there were hidden buildings and amazing rock colourations. You could not take a dozen steps before someone would shout out “Oh wow, look at that!”.



It was even more magical because there was no-one else around - all the crowds had gone back to their coaches, etc., and there were but a few hundred visitors in the entire city.


Continuing down the valley, we entered the Roman Soldier's Tomb and, although there were no obvious internal carvings, it was still an impressive building. The Garden Triclinium across though, was another site all together.



The inside of this building was beautifully carved with pretend pillars and made marvellous use of the incredible colours in the rock.

After a shower, I met the Ninas in the Cave Bar attached to the hotel - built inside a Nabataean tomb - where we revived our thirsts before heading off for a meal in the hotel.


DAY 5: PETRA - THE ROSE RED CITY

I cannot find the words to describe this awe inspiring city; in fact just look at the photos from my day instead!:















DAY 6: FROM THE CROWDS OF PETRA TO THE DESOLATE BEAUTY OF THE DESERT.

Packing and leaving the rucksack at the door, I headed down to breakfast and made a packed lunch from the bread and cheese available!


Ali came to collect us at 09h00 and we began the slow climb up from Petra to the summit of the surrounding hills and the plateau beyond. Upon reaching the summit, Ali stopped the bus to give us one last glimpse of Petra before we headed off along the King's Highway down to Wadi Rum.




The journey across the desert began on the outskirts of Petra with red sandstone rocks and slowly moved to yellow sandstone before finishing up with brown sand. We passed several camels along the route and numerous goat herds; all the while the heat was building up.

Just before midday, we finally pulled off the main road and began the final 8 miles into Wadi Rum. There, we unloaded our bags and went to our tents - our accommodation for the night is a Bedouin camp.





After a cup of sweet tea, we sat down to lunch.

Some of the group opted to take a camel ride and so, some 30 minutes later, a camel train of 5 left the camp with two of us following on foot - the official camp photographer! The little train moved out into the desert and into the heat.



Five camels making it seem easy to walk across the sand - two followers making it seem difficult. After an hour, we returned into camp, dismounted and drank a large quantity of water!


Come 15h00, we boarded our two jeeps and headed off into the desert for a four hour trip. Leaving the Bedouin Camp, we crossed the little railway line and started across the sand.


First stop was a little group of rock carvings depicting ibex drawn by the Hammoudians. Then we came to stop at a wonderfully tall sand dune. Whilst the energetic ones climbed to the top and ran down at high speed the rest of us partook of more sweet tea.




Again, more bumpy travel until we came to a magnificent rock bridge and a camel train. This particular bridge was not too easy to climb, and so we continued another quarter mile to a second bridge. The views across the desert were spectacular and the group decided to climb.


Finally, we stopped once more - to collect fire wood - before eventually stopping in the lee of an enormous rock where our drivers built a fire and we climbed to a platform in order to watch the sun go down.

Although there was some heat haze, the view across the desert to the distant hills, some 20 miles away, was spectacular.

Sadly, there were no clouds in the vicinity and so the sunset was not as spectacular as it could have been. However, to see the setting sun over such a remote part of the earth was awe inspiring,





Finally, after the sun dropped, we too dropped and joined our drivers in taking tea before returning to camp, a meal, some music and a night in a tent.


DAY 7: ACROSS THE DESERT AND FAR AWAY

The night under canvas went very quickly - for me. Others complained at the noise coming from the dogs, the little train, the odd vehicle, snoring, but I heard nothing - apart from the occasional mosquito trying to get a quick bite.


Breakfast was a simple affair - strong coffee, pitta bread dipped in olive oil and herbs and hard boiled eggs. By 07h00, the bus was packed and nine sleepy adventures headed for 5 hours across the Jordanian Desert back towards the north. To pass the time, we managed a group crossword, although next time I recommend that the person with the pen has some numeracy and language skills!




Coming off the Desert Highway, we joined the Dead Sea Highway. It seemed rather odd standing on the top of a cliff next to a sign indicating that you are at Sea Level!

The Dead Sea is also known as the Sea of Lot as, when Lot and his family fled the destruction that would befall the cities of Sodom and Gomorrah, Lot's wife turned to view the hand of God and was immediately turned into a pillar of salt.

After some 5 hours of travelling, we arrived at Bethany-Beyond-The-Jordan.

The fascinating history of this area included the place where John the Baptist preached, Jesus was baptised, the first five disciples met and thus, the foundations of early Christianity were laid. Jesus is believed to have come here en route from Galilee and spent three days here before heading into the nearby wilderness for 40 days. John was later arrested and beheaded by Herod nearby.


In keeping with the biblical struggles, the local area is not controlled by the Ministry of Tourism, but by the armed forces as the Jordan River, which is only a few feet wide at this point, is the border between Jordan and the Occupied West Bank.




Entering the site, we first stop at a modern baptism pool where filter water from the Jordan is used in the modern ceremonies. Walking through in the midday sun, we arrive at John the Baptists pool, where he is reputed to have himself been baptised.



Continuing through the wild flowers, we arrive at the baptism site; a pool next to the River Jordan where the remains of three churches have been found.




After filling some bottles with river water, we headed back to our bus and the luxury that would be our final day in Jordan. We were heading for a day of nothing by the Dead Sea.


DAY 8: PLAYING DEAD BY THE DEAD SEA

Today is the penultimate day of the trip. Today is a day of rest. Today, we are playing Dead!

After a very relaxing night's sleep, breakfast came round at 08h00 - in a restaurant. What luxury!




The only thing I have done today is swim in the Dead Sea - enjoy the photos, I'm not writing any more - I'm on holiday!!!!"

John went on our Petra & Wadi Rum trip. Visit our website for more information. The Adventure Company also offer many trips to Jordan.

You can also find a full account of John's stay in Jordan and other travels he has completed on his blog. Check out his amazing photos!

Thanks for reading!
The Adventure Company